How did you tune your MT Intellifeed?

[Trigga Nometry]

So as I was tuning my newly installed Master Technafeed (ok, ok, MT Intelifeed lol), I realized that no one really talks about what settings they ended up with for their set-up, what loader board they are using, are you using the Tadao Loader delay, etc.

So how about it? What process did you find best to tune your Tadao/Intelifeed settings?

What I used today was:
Angel Force FBS Tadao
MT Intelifeed
Cheetah Board
Boost 10.6 1400mAH rechargeable battery pack

To tune it, I started off at a Intelifeed setting of 6 (using real paint) and worked my way up to 13 until I ran out of air. I had SUPER SMOOTH feeding and at times I did hear the motor almost jam but the Cheetah did not go into reverse mode. Too bad I ran out of air. I NEED MORE AIR!!! lol

I thought this might be a good thread so that new Intelifeed users will have place to go to see what to do and how other people are tuning their settings and what they experienced.

[Mavrick]

Ya Trigg it is pretty quick!
My results with FBS Tadao
G7 Arsenal
Halo with 11.1V Li-po 1800 mAh
Cheetah.
I have my setting around 12 to 14 if I remember right. I started higher than that and crushed ball stacks. So I still need to tune it more. Might need to drop my voltage a little. I got a feeling the motor won't take it forever.

Air :cry: get use to it. This is a blast just seeing how fast you can rip with it. I did one Gangsta mode with a full load and it was a sight to behold.

[boostmonkey]

Trigga, great idea. I just ordered a halo with a Master technafeed (did I say it right?) tonight. I have a Reloader B and have had TWO VLocitys and I'm ready to try the I-Halo camp now. If that doesn't work for me then so help me I will get a Q-loader... And none of us want that to happen!

I will post my settings (with LP3.2) once I get a chance to try the MT-I-Halo out.

-boosty

[Th3bLaCkNiGhT]

i have yet to finish tuning mine. i am thinking about purchasing some of those handy boost rechargeable packs but have yet to do it. as of now im running the e^2 energizers and i only have it on 5 or 6 right now ... i got lazy and started using my backup predatored gun lol. ill finish 2morrow night when i finish my mask modding. i also ordered an angry board but they are on backorder right now. i will also be running to the local hobby shop to pick up a hyper dash II motor and a plasma dash motor to be putting my my halos.

[Trigga Nometry]

Bump! Anyone else have anything to add?

[DeadlyUSMC]

Ok I know I've been outta paintball for awhile now but where did you get the intellifeed kit, cheetah board etc. I checked on Impact and Performance Angel and could not find them. Also is the Angry board faster than the V35?? Also what all is invovled in installing the intellifeed kit????

[firemedic30]

That was a project that some of us worked on for the MTs.

What happened was when they put the TADAO out, no one could use their intellifeeds because of power. The relays were not tripping. They designed a way around that for the TADAO crowd!!

I tested a prototype for them and it was a do-it-yourself mod!!

PS, how is everything ELSE going for ya!!!

[DeadlyUSMC]

Going good now, just need to kick the landlord in the head still :evilgrin: :cheers:

[GMG Force Fly]

Ok I know I've been outta paintball for awhile now but where did you get the intellifeed kit, cheetah board etc. I checked on Impact and Performance Angel and could not find them. Also is the Angry board faster than the V35?? Also what all is invovled in installing the intellifeed kit????

You can get the intellifeed kit from Fix My Angel or Performance Angel(Call them). Tag Sportz makes the Cheetah board(tagsportz.com). Cheetah > Angry > V35. To install the intellifeed kit you'll need to have your solenoid cover drilled and tapped for the intellifeed plug, drilling a hole in the Halo the rest is just connecting it.

[DeadlyUSMC]

You can get the intellifeed kit from Fix My Angel or Performance Angel(Call them). Tag Sportz makes the Cheetah board(tagsportz.com). Cheetah > Angry > V35. To install the intellifeed kit you'll need to have your solenoid cover drilled and tapped for the intellifeed plug, drilling a hole in the Halo the rest is just connecting it.

How hard is it to drill and tap everything yourself?, especially the solenoid?

[boostmonkey]

How hard is it to drill and tap everything yourself?, especially the solenoid?

Just the solenoid cover, don't put any holes in your solenoid. It is not hard at all, but I highly recommend you practice on another piece of aluminum first.

[boostmonkey]

Oh shoot, I forgot to post my settings once I got my Angelforce intellifeed kit installed. I am using a Halo B with stock board and stuff.

I am hitting peak bps on the screen of 22 with a max of 24. I am the one shooting on the left in this video (http://media.putfile.com/Technix-and-Boostmonkey).

I have Fly board version LP3.2. I have the intellifeed actuation set to activate every trigger pull (A 1). I have played with the hopper time setting, and it doesn't seem to make any difference. 0.05s through 0.20s all yield ~22 bps. With the hopper time set at 0.05s, it was noticeably less consistent. At 0.10s and up it is fine though. So I have left it at 0.10s for now.

This is what I am wondering:
If the time is set at 0.10s, and I pull the trigger at 10bps or more. That means the signal to the Halo will be constant, right? How will this work with Cheetah boards? The Cheetah is supposed to measure the speed the balls are moving in the stack and adjust the motor speed to match.

I think the the Angelforce board must pull the eye signal low (ov) to tell the hopper to run. I have not actually measured it yet though. If it sent the eye signal high, then the hopper would think the eyes always had paint sitting in front of it and wouldn't move. If it pulls the signal low though, then the hopper would think the paint dropped and would feed.

I know that is the basic eye logic for a revy. I imagine the eye logic is more sophisticated for a halo, but I honestly don't know. Having read Curt's design notes on his blog from when he originally designed the cheetah, i know his logic is quite a bit more sophisticated.

I wish I knew what the angelforce intellifeed board actually does besides offer compatibility with WDP & Tadao boards. I NEED to get a PC-interfaced oscilloscope to replace my old Techtronix analog scope.

[Mavrick]

Ahhh, grasshopper. The electrons and manipulation of their magic is an art! All you need to know at this time is that it works. lol

In technical terms it is pretty simple. I am lying to the hopper board about what the eye logic sees. But both the eye signal and Intellifeed signal work in harmony. So to answer the question on the Cheetah ramping logic. That works by pulse tracking using a micro controller counting the time space of eye registration of ball movement. So the intellifeed is doing the same thing by replacing that with a trigger pulse for each eye pulse. But the Intellifeed signal is far more accurate for that timing and count.

Gaud, I am sounding like Curt more every day with this stuff. The more I know about hopper electronics the more I want to squeeze out of it. I know allot has changed since he wrote that blog. But good stuff anyways.

[boostmonkey]

Grasshopper? Dude, I am an electrical engineer. I want to know how it works so that we can know what we are actually changing by changing the intellifeed settings on the Angel. The eye signal & intellifeed signal can't work in that much of harmony - they share a common wire to the halo board. ONE of those signals is going to overide the other for a time.

Perhaps the anwers lay in what the signal from the Angel to the Angelforce board look like. If it is outputing a steady voltage as I asked, then at higher time setting and rates of fire the intelliffed board would have no way of seeing individual trigger pulls, only that the gun was "firing".

[GMG Force Fly]

The stock board is "smart" when it "sees" a ball it stops the intellifeed signal.

[Mavrick]

Bootmonkey,
Sorry for the smart remark! It comes with age you know. If I told you how I did it and all that I had to learn to make it function properly well the cat is out of the bag then! But to make it simple. You are correct in that one signal will override another one. We are splitting milliseconds here though. The one true factor is the signal from the guns board. It is set by a dwell-offset function and that signals the Intellifeed board. Each part of the signal path has its own built in delay of sorts. We are far exceeding in speed what the hopper eyes will see. If there is no intellifeed signal then that junction connection is open for the loader eyes. They will therefore function as they would if no intellifeed connection were present. So in truth we are signaling faster than the hopper eyes can see so any signal from them is a hiccup as far as the loader is concerned. Now the key part is when the loader starts feeding paint the marker is ready for it. That way we are not jamming the ball stack. The Intellifeed is fast enough that if you do not set it up properly on your marker board you WILL jam the stack. Once you get the proper signal delay to allow pneumatics and electronics to work in harmony there is no way of feeding paint faster. The bonus is boards that use microcontrollers to gauge and remember your style of shooting. Ramping is a perfect example. It is the best way I know to starve a marker. I have not been able to do it yet with my combo of Tadao, Halo B and Cheetah using a Li-po battery for lots of reserve power. The thing is just plain awesome. But the paint starts to get expensive after a few cases of fun!

Hope that all helps. Didn’t mean to write a report on it. lol

[boostmonkey]

The stock board is "smart" when it "sees" a ball it stops the intellifeed signal.

OH?! That is key information. Thank you! So when ripping strings of paint the signal from the "HOP" port will be a pulse, and not a steady voltage. Cool. In that case it ought to work excellently with the Cheetah's algorithm to detect stack speed.

So changing the hopper Time setting on the Fly board probably really won't change anything.

[boostmonkey]

It's no problem! You'll catch me get annoyed from time to time and be rude with people, I assure you.

That explanation helps a lot Marvrick, thank you. I have a better picture of what the intellifeed is doing now.

I LOVE posts that are long "reports". The standard advice "just send it to a master tech" is great for most people, but I need yo know how things work myself. I bet you are the same way.


Bootmonkey,
Sorry for the smart remark! It comes with age you know. If I told you how I did it and all that I had to learn to make it function properly well the cat is out of the bag then! But to make it simple. You are correct in that one signal will override another one. We are splitting milliseconds here though. The one true factor is the signal from the guns board. It is set by a dwell-offset function and that signals the Intellifeed board. Each part of the signal path has its own built in delay of sorts. We are far exceeding in speed what the hopper eyes will see. If there is no intellifeed signal then that junction connection is open for the loader eyes. They will therefore function as they would if no intellifeed connection were present. So in truth we are signaling faster than the hopper eyes can see so any signal from them is a hiccup as far as the loader is concerned. Now the key part is when the loader starts feeding paint the marker is ready for it. That way we are not jamming the ball stack. The Intellifeed is fast enough that if you do not set it up properly on your marker board you WILL jam the stack. Once you get the proper signal delay to allow pneumatics and electronics to work in harmony there is no way of feeding paint faster. The bonus is boards that use microcontrollers to gauge and remember your style of shooting. Ramping is a perfect example. It is the best way I know to starve a marker. I have not been able to do it yet with my combo of Tadao, Halo B and Cheetah using a Li-po battery for lots of reserve power. The thing is just plain awesome. But the paint starts to get expensive after a few cases of fun!

Hope that all helps. Didn’t mean to write a report on it. lol

[Trigga Nometry]

For those wondering if you retain your original board functions when you have the MT Intellifeed installed I can honestly tell you from experience after this past weekends experience. It was around 95 degrees F with a "feels like 100-105" factor. It was freaking hot and insanely humid for New England weather. It was so hot that if you left the paint (Chronic and Origin) out for over 10 minutes exposed in the weather, it go very soft and even sticky. It was crazy.

Anyway, after the paint was out for longer and as the day went by (Doh! :doh: Forgot to bring a cooler to keep the paint properly conditioned!) the paint just got worse. So bad that after a while the paint was sticking to itself and would also cause jams in the loader. I heard the Cheetah board kick into the anti-jam sequence many times at the end of the day and BAM! the jam was fixed.

What does that mean? My board still used it's original programming even though it was being Master Tech Intellifed. Sweet!

On a side note, I could not believe that I did not get a single breech break due to the G7 Fly handling the poorly cared for paint. Damn, not even a single barrel break! Did I mention that I love my G7 Fly.... A LOT!! Balls were breaking as soon as they left the barrel but not a single break even in the barrel.

[Magnum PI]

Hopefully someone can give me an answer. Trig and Mav posted that they had there intelli settings on their Tadao's set to 11+ when I can only max out at 10. This is also shown on the quick reference guide, max setting of 10 with 20 ms between each setting. I am trying to get a good starting point with this setup without having a blender when starting. No one likes cleaning a hopper. Anyway, does anyone else have any setting sugestions and any insight to the max setting. Maybe Ken or Bob have an answer as well. Thanks.

[LowLude00]

i dont konw if i missed it but did anyone post there settings for there intellifeed g7 fly?

[RevBubba]

I just installed my Intellifeed Tadao mod on my Force 4 Fly with MT Tadao board and a Halo with a V-35 board.

I am NOT noticing the rof I had with my old Intellireloader and stock board.

Could someone let me know what they are finding works with the hardwarte I have.

I read people are talking about settings? What you you setting?

[thatguy!]

Intellifeed dwell, last setting on the board.

Mine isn't faster either, but it is more consistent.

[Trigga Nometry]

You want to set the Tadao Intellifeed settings so that it is not crushing the balls in the breech. This takes some fine tuning. Many just start with a medium settings of about 5 or 6 and fire off a string. If all is OK, then raise it up on and repeat until it is super consistent.

IMHO, the key with the MT Intellifeed is not necessarily speed but the consistency that it gives you.

[Mavrick]

Ok start here:

Yellow Loader delay– 2 or 3
Flashing Blue/Red Intellifeed dwell (I got mine set at 7 on my A4 Fly and G7) 7 or 8
Purple Dwell - 12ms

These may need to be tweaked on your gun as each one is a little different. Battery charge on the marker and Loader batteries will also show big differences. So start with fresh charge and new loader batteries. I use Hellfire paint so these should work for most of you.

[RevBubba]

I will try that thanks...Thatguy, Trigga and Mav

I have my purpel dwell set at 10ms. this was what I have had it set at and it seems to work well. Is 12 ms recommeded for some reason?

[thatguy!]

If 10 works, leave it at 10.

I run mine at 6 with Evolve, and 7 without. :)

[Mavrick]

I will second what "Thatguy" said on the dwell. That is a starting point that I put in my post. From there you can reduce dwell until you see negative effects. I also use Hellfire in my markers so it helps with that. Different paint will also allow you to tweak settings. Trigg put it nicely as well. Consistency with out chopping is what were after. Speed is all in your style. I have run mine in full auto at the settings I listed and it was pretty sick. I was woods ballin at P&L in Bridgewater, MA where it is allowed. I went through almost 2 cases that day. Can't say for sure what my MORF was but it looked like a ribbon from my look down the barrel. lol

[MVpaintball]

Oh my GOD! Imagine hiding behind a tree with Mav shooting FA at you! Better call for mommy.
And Im still waiting to get my gun so I can post my settings(and how I got to those settings) in here. The wait for is killing me:(

[Trigga Nometry]

Oh my GOD! Imagine hiding behind a tree with Mav shooting FA at you! Better call for mommy.
And Im still waiting to get my gun so I can post my settings(and how I got to those settings) in here. The wait for is killing me:(I bet he cackles like a clown on crack when he is behind that tree shooting full auto lol.

[Mavrick]

Shucks Trigg! Was that you I was shootin at!!! Cackle, Cackle