do they still make the Cheetah board ?

[Skinny C]

are these still being made from tag ?

[PaintballStar18]

Yeah, they were doin something to the software or somethin, so they werent available for a little while, but they had them for sale at cup and on their website.

http://www.tagsportz.com/index.php?cPath=40

[1boobfromSector 7-G]

I didn't hear the thing about the software, from the person I talked to though email at the company awhile back and they said they just had a new batch. So from this I get that they just ran out. BTW pick up these boards they are the bomb.

[Skinny C]

right now i have the angry board, is the other one better. i was going to trade or sell it to get a Cheetah...thanks guys

[1boobfromSector 7-G]

I have never owned the angry board, so I can't really compare the two, but I will say this. The cheetah freaking rips, it costs a ton, but man is it sweet. Has a SUPER bright led so you can actually see it EASY, also the sweetest thing about it is that it can spin the motor backwards to help in unjamming. Also i forgot to mention this thing is INSANLY fast. The only other board I would even consider besides a cheetah is the WAS board for the halo.

[Studmuffin]

my friend has one but i haven't been able to see it yet...i think the spinning backwards thing its awesome though. i would buy it just for that!

[DarkCataclysm]

A friend of mine ordered one from them right around cup. It was having sensitivity issues. We put it into 3 solid black halos that were completly cleaned out and worked fine with stock board and v35. Only 1 of the halos would work with the board. On the other 2 halos we tryed switching which holes the eyes were in, tapeing them to make sure no cross interferance was happening outside the halo feedneck. 2 of the halos failed with the board. The other seemed to work decent. On a G7, the halo was feeding a constant 17-19 bps with new batterys. We couldn't get the cheetah to break 20 bps. However when performing a drop test off the gun with the cheetah board installed the hopper would spin considerably faster causing the paintballs to popcorn inside the hopper. With the v.35 we could hit 21 with the same gun settings put the rof was inconsistant with miss feeds. We called Tag after cup to ask them what the problem was with the board and they said they are having sensitivity issues and that they were working on a software fix. They suggested sending it back in so that they could adjust it/patch it and send it back out. They also asked if we were using a clear hopper because they were having a few issues with clear hoppers.


Pros:

The cheetah unjam sequence was real nice and the constancy of bps was noticeably better than the v35.

Cons:
With the problems we had, 80 dollars seemed to be fairly high priced for the board that only worked in 1 out of 3 hoppers we used.

[Skinny C]

verry well said...i like, i also have a jalo. i like the jalo and my angry was a backup. but i played cxbl (15bps ramp). the jalo did its job for that but i want a good back up...

[Tally-Ho]

Skinny, I have posted in the past on the CHEETAH and I am biased as I lub it!!!

I have had it three months and I have played in 4 tournaments these are the results to date: (G& Joy and Fly Joy)

No broken paint in my hopper (Used to happen with Empire, V35 and Halo B)

No broken paint in feed stack or on bolt.

I can only say this thing rox!!!!

My son has one and I will get him to post also…….

[FATBACK]

The only other board I would even consider besides a cheetah is the WAS board for the halo.

The cheetah is supposedly that board....TAG bought the design/software or whatever from Jim...........i dont go on the TAG forum so i could be mistaken on this.....

[1boobfromSector 7-G]

From what I understand they will be different, because I sent wicked air sportz an email. The only real reason I would get a WAS board is because you are suppposed to be able to adjust about everything on it, so you could put in a plasma dash motor and adjust the board to send the correct power to it without burning it up.

[uniquenewyork15]

yes the cheetah is better than the angry and the angry is known to have lots of problems

[Skinny C]

i think i have made my mind up...anybody want to buy a angry board? haha

[warpedx]

I don't have any experience with the different HALO boards, but when looking at the TAG site, I saw this in the description for the Cheetah board: "The newest creation from KM2/TAG"
KM2 is the company that makes the Morlock board, so they might have contracted out for the design, but I'm guessing the WAS board will be different.

[KEN CRANE]

yes the cheetah is better than the angry and the angry is known to have lots of problems

thats not true at all ,the angry board is a very good product with very little problems. i have personaly sold over 50 of these with no returns for issues.this is the board that i use in all my test halos and my personal gun.

[KEN CRANE]

yes the cheetah is better than the angry and the angry is known to have lots of problems

thats not true at all ,the angry board is a very good product with very little problems. i have personaly sold over 50 of these with no returns for issues.this is the board that i use in all my test halos and my personal gun.one of the major flaws in the cheetah board is when it reverses it causes the balls to jam against the ball cup.

[Skinny C]

now every one has got me messed up...well i guess, as they say if it ant broke dont fix it. so i think i may just keep the angry ? or no..??

[fife]

.....one of the major flaws in the cheetah board is when it reverses it causes the balls to jam against the ball cup.

Ken......please elaborate?

[KEN CRANE]

Ken......please elaborate?


this was origonialy done in some prototype loader boards we tested well over a year ago. look in your hopper. follow the balls back if they were going backwards in a row and tell me what you see.

[Sauron]

I've never had a problem with the Cheetah board that I've reviewed. Right Ken?

[fife]

this was origonialy done in some prototype loader boards we tested well over a year ago. look in your hopper. follow the balls back if they were going backwards in a row and tell me what you see.

I'll look tonight, but I've yet to have a problem with mine.

I guess the long lost question whether the Angry is "supposed" to reverse or not is NO? :evilgrin:

[KM2Curt]

I had to laugh when I saw the "Bought the design from Jim". I was as public as possible when I developed it- http://northarc.com/~curt/halo

It was designed with and for TAG, thus the 'Predator' branding.

I did have some problems with the reverse cycle crushing balls with some of the original versions, it had to to with not properly predicting/compesating for how much the spring was wound and how fresh the batteries were. That problem was solved some time ago, but its often unfortunate how rumors persist.

Just trust your own eyes, ask/look around on the web from people who own them, I am confident the product speaks for itself.

I'd be more than happy to answer any questions.

-Curt

[gc82000]

I understand what Ken is trying to say. What he means is that balls will get crushed or the drive cones will break. I have had this happen to me a couple of times, most of them in the beinning of a game. It will happen if your loader is mostly full or your area around the cone if fully "loaded."

[fife]

I looked at mine pretty closely this weekend. I tried it full and with only 10 balls loaded. Keep in mind that I haven't had any problems before so I wasn't expecting to find anything now. When I simulated a jam, it only reversed approximately 20-30 degrees or the distance of one ball. I guess I could see an excessive amount of cone rotation being an issue, but in my case the slight amount of reverse rotation possed no problem at all. This maybe was the problem TAG had originally and corrected:notsure:

[Arsenal7]

I recently purchased a cheetah board off ebay. When it arrived I discovered that there wasn't any instructions or a manual included. I managed to figure out the most basic of its operation. Namely, turning it on and off. However, I have no idea what the various led colors represent.

Could one of you predator users please help me out with a crash course in its operation? Thanks.

[fife]

I recently purchased a cheetah board off ebay. When it arrived I discovered that there wasn't any instructions or a manual included. I managed to figure out the most basic of its operation. Namely, turning it on and off. However, I have no idea what the various led colors represent.

Could one of you predator users please help me out with a crash course in its operation? Thanks.

You should contact TAG sports for a manual (sheet) based on the date/rev code on the board, I know the version I have is one of the first. I believe they recently made some changes.

[Tally-Ho]

Warning: due to the sensitivity of the new detection system in the Cheetah we do not recommend the use of clear or transparent shells.

The newest creation from KM2/TAG. This monster control system is a new approach in handling the feeding system you are currently using. Curt designed the Cheetah to monitor the motor and the eyes to keep a steady, super fast, flow of balls feeding into your gun. If the Cheetah senses a jam it will reverse immediately to clear up the problem and let you continue on with your killing spree. Using a new reflective eye logic black and even clear paint cannot sneak past this Predators eyes. No longer will you be limited at what type of paint you use because your loader cannot see it. This board carries a lifetime upgrade policy so you will never have to pay for software revisions again. When you use a Predator you are using the fastest and most advanced code in the industry.

Function and Design:
• Eye is digitally sampled with a 10-bit Analog to Digital converter. No more "on/off", the Cheetah can detect the tiniest bump in voltage, allowing it to detect the darkest/clearest paint. This is done automatically and does not require you to fiddle with a potentiometer.
• Eye can actually SEE THE PAINT MOVE with its ADC and uses that information to refine its feeding levels to match your guns firing pattern exactly. No overdriving. No broken paint.
• Advanced motor-control circuitry can turn the motor on full speed if your gun shoots that fast, ever hooked your battery up directly to the motor? Yeah we can go that fast. This board can handle roughly 6 times the current draw of a Halo, you'll never burn it out.
• Precise digital speed control on the motor, from a crawl to 38 bps and all speeds in between, the Cheetah watches your gun, and feeds it as fast as it can fire, but no faster.
• Precise current sense allows near instantaneous detection of motor slowdown and stall conditions, we won't break your paint.
• Current sense also allows the Cheetah to keep the spring just barely wound, we keep a little pressure on the ball stack at all times without shooting balls past weak detents.
• Advanced anti-jam detection and clearing. The Cheetah can reverse the motor at FULL SPEED to unwind the spring and clear a jam in less than a second once detected.
• No special drive cones, no lubricated belts, its all in the board and hands-free, you just fire.
• "Chameleon" LED tells you exact loader state, battery level, and status. Board is programmable for those of you who like to tweak.
• Battery use is optimized, when this board is off its really off, and won't drain your cells when not running. Even when its on, the board 'sleeps' when not feeding to be sure the power is there when you need it.

LED Operation:
RED PULSING LED: replace battery
YELLOW LED: battery warning
GREEN LED: seeing movement
BLUE: loaded but not running (normal operation)
PURPLE: manual mode
ORANGE: feed tube empty Turn loader on with a 2 second push and hold of the front button. A multicolor display will run during calibration. Turn loader off with a 3 second push and hold of the button.
Upon initial boot up sequence the loader will run to calibrate itself. During this time it will run in both directions. This might be necessary again if the type of paint you use is changed during the loaders use.
The Cheetah will timeout after 10 minutes of non use
We strongly suggest the use of lithium or good alkaline batteries when using your new Cheetah board. The few extra bucks you spend will give you much more run time and greater performance.
It is important to prepare your HALO for its new brain. We suggest cleaning it completely and making sure that the EYES are clean enough to eat off of. If tthis is not done your HALO will have a hard time seeing black paint.

The Rip-Switch: If you touch the on/off switch it "kicks" the hopper, running the unjam sequence and repriming itself. In other words its a software-rip drive for the case where the eyes have become fouled, or damaged, or whatever. No more thumbing the wheel, one touch of the button will clear jams and auto-feed. When it first starts up its in "automatic" mode (blue light when loaded) but if it runs the unjam sequence more than three times in a row, it assumes it can't see the paint, and drops into "sweet spot" mode, which assumes that it has been fed dark paint and the eye is on a ball intersection (this happens when the eyes are looking into the point where the 2 balls meet instead of the center of a ball). It can still detect motion and feed properly, the only thing it can't do is unjam itself and detect when its out of paint. No problem, thats what the rip-switch functionality is for!

If you hold the switch down for less than 4 seconds, it commences the unjam-sequence, more than 4 seconds it will switch modes (purple = manual, blue = automatic) more than 6 seconds and it turns off.

Button functionality:
Push and hold to turn on
Push for less than 4 seconds to force the unjam sequence (while running)
Push for more than 4 seconds and it will change modes
Push for more than 6 seconds and the loader turns off
Blue LED = Automatic mode (normal operation) Loader will run unjam sequence
Purple LED = Manual mode, you have to initiate the unjam sequence.

[Arsenal7]

Tally-Ho, a million thanks for the info.

[mymindistrapped]

i don't know where to get an angry board or a cheatah board, the web site tagsportz doesn't have them on it i have been lookin for about 30 min. it's driving me crazy WHERE CAN I FIND ONE OF THESE BOARDS

[Tally-Ho]

I would just email them as they are pretty good at responding fast. I have picked two from peeps that do not understand that to make them work properly you only have to do three things:

1. Follow the Instructions on setup.
2. Make sure good batteries-I use lithium and have had same set in my
Cheetah for 5 months as it seems that it is easy on batteries in
comparison to other Halo setups.
3. Make sure eyes are clean (This is the be alll and end all to you
enjoyment of this board in my opinion.)

I know own 4 Cheetahs and very happy.

[Skinny C]

angry board = ken at performanceangel.com...he has them

i got mine from angrypaintball.com

[esandov]

You can get them at www.punisherpaintball.com They have them. Cheetah boards are exceptionally sick and mine has worked flawlessly since its installation. Worth every friggin penny.

[fixit]

I play alot of reball and reball is a little smaller than paint so it jams easier. Tied a few mods to my halo all with little improvement. Stuck in a Chetah board and no more problems. Works even better with paint. You canget it from punisher or from tag direct. Well worth the money