View Full Version : Cobra trigger
cad01001
01-27-2003, 05:26 PM
Man, ive read all previous threads, consulted a tech and gone though my manual to many times.
With the cobratrigger, is it at all possible to get a tight triggerpull using the rear pivot point?
I can get the pull as tight as i wish, but then the trigger wont hit the opto hard (deep) enough to make the shot go off.
And with the screw benieth the spring, its not possible to adjust it so that it will fire, without making the triggerpull longer.
Is The cobra trigger different from the stock one?
Must I use another pivot?
Thankful for help.
acoenfam1
01-27-2003, 05:37 PM
I don't know if his has any bearing on your problem or not. But I could almost swear I saw in here somewhere that someone said the center pivot was the best for the Opto Trigger boards. I don't have a Cobra Trigger on my Dark so I'll be the first to tell you I have no personal experience with what you're describing.
cad01001
01-27-2003, 06:18 PM
Ive tried to set the screw benieth the spring as tight as possible without having it "lock" the trigger, and then unscrewing it just a pinch.
But then i must set the upper screw in such a manner that the triggerpull is far to long. If set tighter, the trigger wont hit the opto.
-
I cant seem to find another solution than using the middle pivot... ;(
NE1?
cad01001
01-27-2003, 07:05 PM
Finally!
With the rear pivot point i now have the 1mm pull that i love.
What happened was that the bottomscrew in the trigger somehow makes the trigger stick if screwed in to far. When that happened i found that if i just unscrewed it like a mm and pulled the trigger i could go on and screw it in further.
Problem solved and im a happy camper! Happy as hell.
By the way, Without the spring the trigger is even more sensitive (opto). Dont think ill ever use that spring again!
Thanks for helping me out!
acoenfam1
01-27-2003, 07:17 PM
KICK #&*!!! Now I've got to try it. Let me make sure i've got it right. Remove the trigger spring and set the screws so the trigger is close to the board?? What do you mean by that? So that the actuating bar is close to the board?
bluecncir3
01-27-2003, 08:41 PM
ive gotten a really nice trigger pull using the middle pivot point. i just took out the trigger spring and put a little lock tite on the set screws so the screws dont back out or anything after adjustments and adjusted them in really small increments. its really time consuming but you get what you work for. took me about an hour to get mine REALLY short. it may just be a little less than 1mm. its so sensitive...if you look at it wrong it might just go off
Paul99
01-28-2003, 10:05 AM
The main problem is that when you turn the screw,(under the spring),it bites its way into the frame,(take a look under the trigger,you WILL see small round marks).Therefore you are screwing the screw too far,when you loosen it and pull the trigger further in and then tighten the screw you manage to get a little closer to the board.Very time consuming.
A good fix is to take a very hard piece of metal,ie stainless steel,and cut a piece that will fit into the gap in the frame where the trigger screw goes,when you do this the trigger screw doesnt bite into the frame and makes finer adjustments possible.
You could also polish the harder metal or grease it,its obvious that a metal on metal contact with moving parts is not efficient!
To fix your new piece of metal into place,id suggest using a powerfull adhesive like epoxy resin or any other strong two component glue.
Ive done this on my IR3 and have no problems adjusting my trigger since....
brian5
01-29-2003, 11:13 AM
i rounded and polished the bottom of the set screw under the spring.
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