HK speed vision trouble

[maytherman]

Hey.

Just got this HK'd speed w/ was and ace on it in a trade couple days ago. Everything seems to work great but the eyes. When i turn on the gun, eyes seem to work, but then when i pull the trigger once, the led light flashes red and green. I have to pull the trigger 2 more times for the gun to bypass vision and cycle normally but with no vision. Nothing is in the breech.

[welted]

i don't know much about WAS, but it sounds like a board problem. find yourself a WAS board manual. perhaps some of the settings need to be adjusted. also check your connections to make sure that everything is plugged in correctly. and i hate to chase people away, but you might be able to find an answer to your problem on a Timmy forum, as they more commonly have WAS than Angels. Welcome to the Angel family and AOG.

[Presto333]

so wuts wrong wit it? u can turn ur eyes on and off right?

[hartless]

It would be helpful to know which version of the WAS board you have. You are going to have to program it using the LED light. This should be reasonably consistent from version to version. You may want to talk to WAS about getting the board upgraded to the latest version. 2.8 (current at the moment) is very good. I ran that board in a Timmy I had and it was very fast with good eye logic. If I can come up with it I will help you out and edit the post with the programming sequence.

[maytherman]

version is 2.6. I can program the settings such as dwell, vision type, and debounce. I looked at the manuel at wickedairsports.com and nothing seemed to help. Ive looked inside the grip and everything 'seemed' right and plugged in, but then again, im kinda retarted and dont know much about the wiring and i dont wanna mess with it. dwell is at 13, debounce 6, and ive put the vision mode on force but it keeps bypassing it whenever I want to shoot it. thanks again, im looking forward to seeing good things from this gun, and i hope that i can get this problem fixed.

[hartless]

Here are some directions that should get you through prgramming using the led.

-Make sure the power switch is on the off position.
-Pull the trigger, and hold it in the back position.
-Turn the power switch to the on position. (The LED will light orange.)
-Now, release the trigger. (The LED will light red.)

Pulling and releasing the trigger will toggle the LED color between red, green, and orange.

-Red indicates you are in the Dwell programming mode
-Green indicates you are in the Debounce programming mode
-Orange indicates you are in the Eye Mode programming mode.
Once you have reached orange, an additional trigger pull will start the sequence of colors over again. This is also known as the "programming starting point".

When you decide which programming mode you want, pull the trigger and hold it until the LED goes out and then release the trigger. There will be a 2 second pause, and then the LED will flash the same color of the programming mode you are in (red=Dwell, green=Debounce, orange=eye mode).

For the Dwell and Debounce programming modes, each flash represents 1ms (millisecond) of time. For example, if you were programming the Dwell and the settings were the default, you would see the LED flash red 8 times in a row, indicating the dwell is set to 8ms. The flashing of the LED shows you the current setting before you program it.

For the Eye Mode programming mode, the total number of flashes represents the mode of the anti-chop system.

Dwell and Debounce

Once the LED stops flashing, you can now pull and release the trigger once for every 1ms of time you want the setting to be. For example, if you were programming the Debounce for 5ms, you would pull and release the trigger 5 times. On each pull of the trigger, the LED will light up (indicating that the pull has been detected). If you have decided not to program this mode, simply do not touch the trigger for 5 seconds. The LED will toggle green/red alternately to indicate there was a programming error, and then go back to the programming starting point.

Eye Mode

Once the LED stops flashing, you can now pull and release the trigger the number of times necessary to set the Eye Mode.

The following is a list of the possible Eye Modes and the flashes (also trigger pulls required):

1 flash – Bypassed mode
2 flashes - Delayed mode
3 flashes - Forced mode
4 flashes - Simulate mode

If you pull and release the trigger more than 4 times, then the LED will toggle green/red alternately to indicate there was a programming error, and then go back to the programming starting point.


Programming Complete

Once you pulled and released the trigger the number of times necessary to set the function, wait a few seconds. The LED will flash red/green/orange in rapid succession (numerous times) to let you know that the new setting has been saved. After this, the LED will return to the color representing what the current programming mode is. At this point, you can once again press and release the trigger to toggle between Dwell, Debounce, and Eye Mode programming modes.

You can perform a complete reset of the Dwell, Debounce, and Eye Mode to the factory defaults when you are in the program starting point (where you can toggle the programming mode). To do this, just hold down the trigger for 5 full seconds.
It does not matter what programming mode you are currently in (Dwell, Debounce, or Eye Mode). The LED will start flashing red, letting you know that a reset operation is being performed. After this occurs, you will be back to the programming starting point

Now all that being said. If the board will not remain in forced, the problem is one of two things. Either your eyes are misaligned or one (or both) are not functioning and will need to be replaced. Get the eyed out of the retaining holes hold them so they are pointing at each other. While the gun is in forced, if you pull the trigger, the gun should not fire. If it delays momentarily and then fires, the eyes are bad. IF it does not fire, then they are not being held properly in the retaining holes. Perhaps use a small piece of paper between the eyes and eye covers to hold them better in place.

[maytherman]

ive read all that above in the WAS manual. I am gonna try and take the gun to my proshop 2morro and see what they say. its got that crap on it that HK puts on it, so its hard to get off and can't be put on. Im thinking the eyes are bad tho. thanks. Ill make sure that they test them in that manner hartless. thanks.

[FrontManDan]

your eyes might just be really dirty, bend a q-tip in half and see if you can clean them with that.

[maytherman]

ive tried that.. and ive cleaned them 2 times. nothing. Ive looked in the eye slots, and nothing seems to be in there, they look really clean. I Have No Idea What Is Wrong?!?!?!!?!?

[hartless]

The more I think about this, I am afraid you are destined to need new eyes.

[maytherman]

yeh.. thats what i think is wrong to... damn that trader. i bet he is lieing and knew that the eyes were bad. bad feedback for him!

[hartless]

Fortunately this is not an expensive item to replace. Do yourself a favor and when you order them, get two sets.

[maytherman]

ok... just got home from the field 2day... and shot this thing. when i first got there... aired it up and put paint in it and shot at the chrono. vision wasn't working. then i shut it off. but when i was going down to the field, i looked, and my gun was still on, but vision was on with it. I played first game, and it shot like a dream. i played back, emptyed loader off break with ease, and ended the game. then, i knew i would regret it, i turn the gun off, and when I went to turn it on again, the vision wouldn't work. I tried all day to get it to work, but the damn thing wouldn't get vision working. So i just played with friends timmy the rest of the day and watched. could it be maybe a pinched wire or somthing?

[hartless]

I would check the leads from the eyes to the wiring harness. pay particular attention to pinch points and where the wires plug into the harness. I am afraid you are going to heav eto figure out how to get the eye covers off and trace the wires alll the way back to the board. It sounds like there is a point that is not making permanent contact or a bare spot that is shorting out. The good thing is that if you can locate the problem you can probably correct it with electrical tape.

[maytherman]

hmmm.... because of my known situations of when I mess things up when I try to fix them, I think I'm gonna leave this one to the techs at my shop. Ill prolly take it up there next week.

O, I dont really know if this could be the problem or not, but there looks like a small pinch point on the external part of the eye wire when going from breech to frame. I dont really know if it would affect it or not, but just thought I would add it to see.