Official Halo B Thread

[AngelBoi]

Okay, instead of having tons of threads about the Halo B chopping problems, lets keep it all in here.

Well, until about 10 minutes ago i never really thought about that problem...My halo has only chopped paint INSIDE the hoppen once, but she always breaks paint in the breech...i thought it was a dwell problem, but maybe its the Halo!

Is that logical?

but, i just thought of something!

When i have my dwell lower than 10, i can fire really fast, but i break paint. I usually keep it at 11, for a good non-chop but high ROF. When its high, i fire slower, but i dont chop.

NOW, is it possible that the reason i am chopping when i fire faster is because my halo is popping paint in the breech, and is pushing down too hard?

any1 else have this problem with a Halo B?

[AngelFourKid]

My dwell is at 9, i have 3.7 on my converted A4, and use a regular z-coded halo b and have no chopping problems whatsoever. BTW, I have warped sportz iron cross detents. I've had problems with my stock ones, but once I put on the iron cross detents, I had no more problems.

[reticule]

Okay, instead of having tons of threads about the Halo B chopping problems, lets keep it all in here.

Well, until about 10 minutes ago i never really thought about that problem...My halo has only chopped paint INSIDE the hoppen once, but she always breaks paint in the breech...i thought it was a dwell problem, but maybe its the Halo!

Is that logical?

but, i just thought of something!

When i have my dwell lower than 10, i can fire really fast, but i break paint. I usually keep it at 11, for a good non-chop but high ROF. When its high, i fire slower, but i dont chop.

NOW, is it possible that the reason i am chopping when i fire faster is because my halo is popping paint in the breech, and is pushing down too hard?

any1 else have this problem with a Halo B?

No offense, but adding this "Official Halo B" thread just added to the thread count for Halo B issues. If there are too many threads, then why add another one?

Anyhow, back to the issue at hand. Maybe you're getting breach bounces if you're pushing the limits of the Halo

[P A C 1]

do you know if stretching your ball detent spring helps keep your stock detents strong for halos?

[pblcd225]

Are you guys have problem with the balls breaking and then you chop? I am getting barrel breaks not chops....... this is the first time I have had this problem but I think it was the weather and humidity!

[DFJ]

My halo and Agel Fly were an absolute blender! The Fly worked fine with an egg - but a little slower. I worked with Ken and found there is an eye sensitivity adjustment on my halo. Unfortuneately you need to drill a hole in the halo to access it. When the halo eye does not pick up the paint, the motor keeps running - compressing the paintball stack and making a mess in the Angel. I moved the setting on the pot from 9 oclock where it was to about 7 oclock. This significantly increased the sensitivity of the eye. At six oclock the motor never runs. At 12 oclock the motor always runs. I then put various color (including split shell) paintballs on a stick and inserted them in the eye path to make sure the motor stops on a dime in all cases. All problems were over - even on a cold day with crap paint. The setup was fast and I have no chops. You would not believe the difference this has made.

[SPEEDFREAK1217]

When i first got my reloader I had a lot of ball breaking problems, what I notice is that the loader has to be fitted just right on the feed neck if not i had double feed issues. Also the reloader is really picky about what paint I use. If i use heat, or blaze I break in the loader, but if I use marbs, pmi premium i have no breaking problems

[Snooky]

The problem I have and now seems like many have is that there will be a small amount of paint coming from the breech when using a halo from it putting balls down into the breech so hard. Only have had 1 barrel break in recent times and not sure if halo was to blame.

Egg2 = no paint from breech and no problems. I went to a halo with v35 and ever since then it has had issues with paint from breech.

Here is what I have tried to do to fix it and the amount of paint has gotten better over time:

-Ram adjustment
-Stretched detent springs
-Greased Halo Belt
-Tried a variety of paint*Blaze, Formula 13, Inferno, PMI* (Inferno outdoors in cold weather and formula 13 indoors showed best results)
-Tried the v35 on settings 3 through 6
-Different Dwell settings
-Tried a reloader B*same results*
-Yes the eyes are on

The settings I'm using currently which have shown the least amount of problems:
Settings I used:
Dwell - Right around 65
T.R. - 2
Dwell - 10
Hopper -Sfast
Halo w/ v35 on mode 6
Software 3.6

I will post pic's next time I fire some paint through my gun and it's just the ever so slightest bit of paint. At the point I have it now I don't believe it is effecting performance however I would still say its a problem and definetly is bothering me.

[Snooky]

DFJ any chance you could post some pics of what you are descirbing? I'm willing to try anything at this point and haven't heard that suggestion before.

[Winnebago]

when my v35 halo has crushed paint, i would lower the speed... so instead of 6 flashes... i would drop to 4 flashes.


another symptom was when firing slow, it would be fine... but when i got up on the trigger with the v35 at the fastest setting, my gun will start spewing paint. fix was lower the halo speed.

[Snooky]

I have no problems what so ever when shooting lower speeds, it's when I start ripping strings of paint that the paint appears. I guess I'll try running my halo at 4 and post results the next time I use it. Tried different settings on the halo before but that was a while back before doing a few things I listed in my previous post.

[DFJ]

The following is what I “think” is going on with the Halo based on working on it. I have no connection with them so I am making some assumptions. Again, I fixed my blender problem with Ken’s excellent help by adjusting the eye sensitivity of the Halo. I was ready to can the Angel and

The system:

The Halo uses an electronic eye to stop the feed motor when the ball stack is full. If you want to see what the Halo motor and paddle will do, run the Halo without any paintballs and place your finger on the paddle. It is impressive how much torque it develops! If the motor continues to run when the ball stack is full there will be problems – chopping breaks etc. The Egg on the other hand uses a very flexible paddle so motor run on is not as big a problem. The flexible paddle in effect acts as a clutch. I have seen several posts which recommend greasing the belt in the Halo which also provides a clutch action. I did not do this.

The eye:

The halo does not use a break beam eye system with a light transmitter on one side and a receiver on the other. Instead, it appears to use a reflective eye which reads light reflected off the paintball. Since white reflects more than black, paintball color becomes an issue. In addition, the Halo only uses one eye, so with a split shell paint it may see a dark color one time and a light color another time. With the variables of paint color, temperature, and brittleness it is little wonder that a marginal system works sometimes and not others.
Therefore, adjusting the sensitivity of the eye is important depending upon the color and brittleness of the paint being used.

Sensitivity pot:

The pot is located above and to the right of the on/off LED. It is small! To get to it you must drill a hole through the faceplate. Don’t do this with Halo assembled or you will hit the pot. There are several posts which describe how to adjust it. Again, after some experimenting I set mine at about 7 o’clock. Since I use field paint, and cannot always pick quality, color, or control ambient temperature this adjustment made all the difference in the world for me. No chops – breaks – or problems.

[paintreliever]

i think its just the weather...but whatever..cause my halob worked fine in the summer, now its not doing so good

[Dorian]

DOes anyone know if Empire Reloader is better or will fix the problem sence it is sound activated?

[AngelBoi]

So is it possible to get some pics of this "drilling" in action? I never really realized it was my hopper...i used to have an egg but i personnaly hated the balance, and it couldnt keep up...

[Dorian]

will the empire reloader fix it?

[AngelBoi]

DOes anyone know if Empire Reloader is better or will fix the problem sence it is sound activated?

Well, with all of the guns that are so fast today, i will bet u that when firing extremely fast that the hopper would continually feed...possibly chopping, but i cannot answer for sure.

[Dorian]

If it didnt countinually feed when you were continually fireing.... doesn't that mean you would have no balls?

[fife]

will the empire reloader fix it?

I've used every loader out there and on different Angels. My PERSONAL experience is the Reloader has given me the most problems (spinning while running, spinning from other markers firing and spinning while my bunker is getting hit). The Reloader is fast, but not accurate.

I have had few problems with the HaloB (all reliative to paint). I do modify all my feeder tube lengths so the eyes line up with a ball and not between two(this is very important). Jim and Impact had posted about greasing the belt, I tried that on one and it worked really well. The biggest problem I have had with the Halo is when shooting single shots. There is a slight delay when the the loader stops, this keeps loading the spring to the point where there is too much pressure on the stack.

Egg, no probs (just slow).

Intelli Halo is the loader of choice for all of us. Acccurate and fast, never a break (period). I do run only 6 volts though because even at Angels min. hopper run time, 9 volts rotates the cone too much.

[DFJ]

I will try to get some pictures, but if you look through the plastic to the right and above the LED you can see the pot on the circuit board.

[Snooky]

Dorian - I had same issues when trying a friends Reloader B.

[AngelBoi]

So is there a way to reduce the power?

[Dorian]

When and where can you get the Intelifeed halo

[Scott7d]

Ive ran a v.35 halo for most the time ive owned my fly and have had ZERO probs till i installed the evolve kit, but right when i installed it is when the weather changed. Ive had alot of barrel breaks and even on single shots, breaking and chopping paint but im starting to think it may be "loader" related now. I lowered my speed and was still doing it last weekend, but everyone was havin probs (bout 40º). I stretched my springs today so hopefully that will make a difference. Ill try greasing my belts on the halo too.

I just know when i first got the gun, I NEVER chopped. Even with odd ball paint and the V.35 I just want it to be that way again. Ill do some tests this weekend.

Also, the person that posted about the eye sensitivity, my halo has started acting wierd, i made sure the eye was clean, and stuck my finger in the neck with it on, sometimes it would stop on a dime, sometimes it would rev for WAAY too long. Batteries were fresh, did this on any speed. Im really starting to think its nothing to do with the gun now. And im curious where to drill the halo for this adjustment? forgive me if that was posted all ready

[P A C 1]

I cant wait till they come out with a gravity fed hopper that feeds faster than halos! whoes with me?!

[AngelBoi]

I cant wait till they come out with a gravity fed hopper that feeds faster than halos! whoes with me?!

no1, cuz that will never happen...

[AngelFourKid]

You never know... :wetspot:

[Dorian]

Q loader is faster

[AngelFourKid]

Q-loader is not really a gravity fed hopper in the sense we are talking about.

[Dorian]

Oh..

[AngelBoi]

lol

Q loader 2 me seems like a loader to use to show off...not really practical for speedball use IMO

[AngelFourKid]

Yea its really not. I guess people agree because I do not see too many of them in use at national events, or any events for that matter.

[AngelBoi]

amen to that

[Winnebago]

qloader - fully indexed, force fed (via spring) hopper
halo/reloaderb - partially indexed, force fed (via spring and motor) agitating hopper
egg - partially indexed, non force fed agitating hopper


the reason why pros don't use qloader... they're not being paid by qloader to use their stuff.

the reason why teams don't use qloader... they're not being paid + 100 rounds per pod isn't much... imagine have to use qloader as a backman... you'll be carrying 10+ pods...

[Snooky]

Tried it today with the v35 at only 4 flashes and formula 13 was worse then ever. This has been going on since early october and I have tried everything in this thread minus the pod thing for the halo. Someone wanna explain what it looks like? Otherwise anyone wanna suggest who I should talk to about getting help with this over the phone and a number? I've about had it with the fly and having issues with the halo.

[DFJ]

Here is a picture of the Halo with the hole drilled in the faceplate so you can get to the eye sensitivity pot.

[AngelBoi]

......wheres the darn pic?

edit: o ok

[DFJ]

You can almost see the pot in the picture - it is right below the 2001.

[AngelBoi]

well, are there any sensitive area's around that area that if messed with could screw up the gun?

[DFJ]

You might also notice I have a piece of clear tape over the hole to prevent your paint from entering my electronics!

[DFJ]

Well I would definately drill the hole with the Halo apart - you don't want to hit the circuit board. In my case the Fly and Halo didn't work anyway so I had nothing to lose. They work fine now. I guess you could also take the board out, turn the pot counter clockwise slightly (not past 7 oclock) and then put it back in without drilling a hole. CAUTION: I think you can count on any of these modifications voiding the Halo warranty.

[paintmauler]

ok got my new used fly haha if that makes sense...but anywho it only has one detent n this small rubber thing posing to be a detent that looks like this guy jsut stuck in there n he says it works fine but i hav yet to try it do u think i will hav any problems?

[Snooky]

The pot is the square piece with the circle in the middle with the groove in it correct? I tried moving it today and it didn't want to move either direction so how and which direction did you move it? Clockwise or Counterclockwise?

[DFJ]

Snooky - yes, the square is the pot and it is soldered to the circuit board. The groove is what turns. Place a jeweler screwdriver in the the groove and turn countrclockwise. It was probably at about 9 oclock when you started - turn to 7 oclock.

[paintreliever]

u dont really have to drill the hole, but it would make live easier i guess..ive done this many a time and it works great

[Snooky]

I turned it to 7 oclock now, will report after I shoot the fly tommorow.

[Scott7d]

I also adjusted the knob, i put it right between 9 and 6oclock. if i get to shoot some paint today, ill post back.

[Snooky]

Found this on PBN in the Matrix forum actually which made sense to me exactly. I know its not about halo's but both are forcefeed and basically the same concept... hope this will help.

:Text:
I was digging around the Eclipse Forum and found that they were having the same problem with the Reloader B that we are. I would say just back the loader up to level 2 so not as much force is being pushed on the balls, since it seems to happen at three or higher.

Anyway...heres what Eclipse had to say about the problem.

Secondly: Reloader B’s crushing fragile paint. This is a problem that has been highlighted by a number of people complaining of “Chopping” whilst using Reloader Bs. The problem we had to start with was that we could not create the problem here at the head office in Manchester UK. We could not, with any of the paint we could get our hands on, recreate the problem. Then, during the week before Christmas, 2 things happened. In RI the Eclipse Factory team came across 2 batches of paint that displayed this very strange break/chop problem. On top of that, the Jaguars, another Eclipse sponsored team, trained with a batch of paint that displayed the same characteristics. At last we had something to work with!

CONCLUSION: What we discovered is a very strange phenomenon that actually affects quite a few different makes of marker out there. The problem is caused by a combination of small gauge, fragile paint, and Reloader Bs.
The actual problem is this: Ball 1 sits in the breech waiting to be fired. Ball 2 sits on top of ball 1 in the feed tube. Ball 2 is being pushed down into the breech by the force exerted by the Reloader B. Because the Reloader B exerts so much force (hence why it is so much faster than other loaders) on the stack of balls, Ball 2 actually protrudes slightly into the breech area. Obviously the smaller the balls, the greater amount of ball 2 protrudes into the breech. When you pull the trigger, the bolt comes forward and pushes Ball 1 into the barrel. The front, top edge of the bolt then strikes the bottom of Ball 2. This is the problem and one of two things can now happen. Either Ball 2 gets fractured by the lip of the bolt hitting it at 300 mph, or in the worse case scenario Ball 2 has a small hole punctured in it, leaving a trail of paint right across the top of the bolt. Ball 1 gets fired, no problem. However Ball 2 is now sat in the breech, waiting to be fired, either already fractured, or with a hole already in it. When you next pull the trigger, be it 1/10th second or 10 seconds later, Ball 2 blows up right on the face of the bolt. This can look like a chop, as there is paint on the bolt (though mainly on the face) and often some paint right at the bottom of the feed tube.

The distinction is that these are not ordinary chops in the sense we have seen before. And it is not confined to the Ego. Our testing showed that other markers have the same problem, to greater or lesser degrees with the same paint and same loader.


SOOO...either use good non-brittle paint, or slow your hopper down a bit. Either way that should stop your chopping.

:End Text:

This I think is 99% sure of what is happening with my fly.

Oh and if anyone uses a specific brand of paint that they have never had problems with please let me know as I would like to give it a whirl.

Last thing, if evolve works like a lvl 10 kit on mags would that mean that it would be more likely to not damage the second ball in the stack due to the less likelyhood of a chop because it bounces off?

[DFJ]

I agree, I think this is an excellant explanation of what happens to the individual paintballs. This is exactly what Ken Crane explained to me to fix my problem. The reason this was happening to me was because the Halo eye was not reading the paint and the Halo was continuing to run - pushing down on the stack compressing the ball in the breech. Again, by adjusting the Halo eye sensititivity I am shooting the same paint in the same same gun that was unusable before. I don't get to pick my paint - the field does, so it must work with crap paint and it does.

[fife]

Last thing, if evolve works like a lvl 10 kit on mags would that mean that it would be more likely to not damage the second ball in the stack due to the less likelyhood of a chop because it bounces off?

It doesn't take much force to cut/chip the second ball, my guess is that it will not help. Has anyone tested before and after with the kit?

[P8ntSlinger44]

Hmm, its to bad people are having problems with their HaloB and Angel setups. The v35 and new Angry baord dont seam to give me that problem.

[fife]

Hmm, its to bad people are having problems with their HaloB and Angel setups. The v35 and new Angry baord dont seam to give me that problem.

Do you use a soft face bolt? I know, but I'm curious.

[P8ntSlinger44]

Yep, soft faced A4 bolt.

[AngelFourKid]

Hmm, its to bad people are having problems with their HaloB and Angel setups. The v35 and new Angry baord dont seam to give me that problem.
I have actually heard that the Victory boards are not all they are cracked up to be, and that they actually cause problems. Im not sure as I do not use a V-boarded Halo.

[SarcoBlaster]

I'm currently using a Reloader B on my Fly and at first, it gave me problems because the ball in the breech was rolling too far back. The second ball in the stack would peek into the breech enough to where it would get nicked. All of this happened when using the Cobra bolt that came with my Mamba Fly.

Once I switched over to the soft face bolt, I noticed one thing that made all the difference; the pin on the Cobra bolt sat too far back, thus not allowing the ram to be moved forward far enough. It clicked when I closed the breech, but once I put the soft face bolt in there, there was no resistance at all. I readjusted the ram and it ripped through 2 hoppers (one with the Reloader B set on speed 2 and one with it set on speed 3) without any problems at all.

[Snooky]

I have cobra, softface and the standard face bolt. Never have used the standard. When I first got the gun the cobra was installed and I was using an egg2. Had no problems with it. Then I went to the v35 halo and when I started to have paint problems I ordered a softface bolt to see if that would help but no luck.

I might try the cobra bolt this weekend if I get around to it.

[Scott7d]

I use a vic boarded halo and had ZERO probs till the evolve, like i said above. Im 99% sure my ram is adjusted right, i hear a click when i close the breach, and there is slight resistance in opening it. No other thing could cause breaking paint with the kit other than a mis-aligned ram, but, when i put my finger in me halo and turn it on, and pull it in and out, it keeps running. I never tried this before the evolve and i wish i did. I turned that dial right between 9 and 6 oclock, so hopefully that works. And off the subject, the evolve has been working great, other than i still need 2 more shims, but i upped my LPR a tad with the adjuster to compinsate for now, i just dont want this post to seem like its the evolve givin me problems, when its probably not it.

[flyguy4]

When i first got my reloader I had a lot of ball breaking problems, what I notice is that the loader has to be fitted just right on the feed neck if not i had double feed issues. Also the reloader is really picky about what paint I use. If i use heat, or blaze I break in the loader, but if I use marbs, pmi premium i have no breaking problems
or you could fly or die bud :clap:

[flyguy4]

Hmm, its to bad people are having problems with their HaloB and Angel setups. The v35 and new Angry baord dont seam to give me that problem.

When i first got my reloader I had a lot of ball breaking problems, what I notice is that the loader has to be fitted just right on the feed neck if not i had double feed issues. Also the reloader is really picky about what paint I use. If i use heat, or blaze I break in the loader, but if I use marbs, pmi premium i have no breaking problems
thatk god someone sayed that cuzz i have an angry and its TOO fast

[flyguy4]

I have actually heard that the Victory boards are not all they are cracked up to be, and that they actually cause problems. Im not sure as I do not use a V-boarded Halo.
the v-35 board are ok but the angry board will smoke it ..... and the other hand an nxl will kill anything you give it and the empire is great, it doesn't over feed and it is about as fast as the angry. I know from experiance with all these boards..... the nxl is the fastest but if you dont have 2 big cones on your belt it'll fry your motor so be careful :madd:

[P8ntSlinger44]

May I ask what an nxl is?

[DarkRipper]

May I ask what an nxl is?

Ir's a board for the Halo.

[P8ntSlinger44]

Where can i read up on this nxl board because Ive never even heard of it untill now.

[CIrrob]

u dont really have to drill the hole, but it would make live easier i guess..ive done this many a time and it works great


I tried drilling the whole and testing the setting at 7 oclock. Sometimes it stopped on a dime, other times it didnt and continued to spin for 1-2 seconds afterwards. Adjusted as far counterclockwise as I could and tested again. Same results: about 50% stop on a dime, and 50% continue for 1-2 seconds afterwards. So i adjusted the other way and tested again. Same results. Set it back to 9 oclock and tested again. Same results.

Oddly enough, before even making this adjustment, I was testing the sensitivity so I got a feel for the difference the adjustment might make, and I got the same results BEFORE adjusting.

I dont think this adjustment does anything at all.

I would like to hear how the originator of this adjustment got his halo to simply stop turning with out reflecting the beam back on itself as he stated earlier (setting the sensitivity so high it deteced something in the feed hole with out somethign actually being there.

[fife]

I have been finding the same thing, that the Halo's eyes are not 100% accurate. That 1 or 2 times is doesn't read, it the time when you could chop.

[DFJ]

This is what I did:

The pot was originally at 9 oclock.

With no paintballs in the Halo, turn it on and the motor will run. Turn the pot CCW and at about 6 oclock the motor stops. Turn it CW slowly and the motor starts running again. I left it at 7 oclock.

I used a dark color battle swab and then a paintball on a stick to test the Halo by inserting it in the feedneck (with the Halo off the gun).

[CIrrob]

This is what I did:

The pot was originally at 9 oclock.

With no paintballs in the Halo, turn it on and the motor will run. Turn the pot CCW and at about 6 oclock the motor stops. Turn it CW slowly and the motor starts running again. I left it at 7 oclock.

I used a dark color battle swab and then a paintball on a stick to test the Halo by inserting it in the feedneck (with the Halo off the gun).

Ok I gave it a shot but this time I added more electrical tape because I noticed there was a slight opening in the seem allowing some outside light to enter. When I was satisified the light was sealed off, I turned it all the way to 4 oclock and sure enoough it shut off. I then slowly adjusted it to activation which was about 7 as you said. But I still get the same results: continues to turn for a second or two sometimes, and stops on dime other times.

It seems to be completely random. I wonder if there is a bad alogrithm in the software somewhere.

[DFJ]

What are you inserting into the feedneck to indicate a paintball?

[DFJ]

Also my activation point was slightly before 7 oclock - I just set it at 7. Sounds like there are variations between boards, probably due to the tolerance of components.

[Snooky]

I believe my problem is finally fixed. One of the things I did this week fixed it. I did the following: Ram Adjustment(Set at back of hammer and not at front: reread the thread from MT and found mine was set incorrectly), Unstretched Detent Springs, Set sensitivity on halo from 9 oclock to 7 oclock.

I tried the halo v35 on 2 and 4 speed and both shot a hopper with no paint residue or chopping. I was using polar ice that broke on 4th and 5th bounce test compared to the formula 13 I had last tried which broke on 1st or 2nd bounce test.

I'm guessing most people will presume that the ram being adjusted correctly was the issue. I know that my ram was adjusted incorrectly now with a egg on it and never had a problem so there was something more to it.

Going to play indoor on sunday and will post on how the fly did indoors on sunday or monday night.

[Scott7d]

Boy, is some weight lifted off my shoulders!! Went to the shop to mess with the evolve kit, and test this halo thing, I ran about 3 hoppers full of dimpled, odd shaped white box paint with ZERO problems, and the evolve kit wasnt even in tune. Was hitting 23bps on TR 4, and it was nice to see WHOLE paintballs leaving the barrel for a change. I guess adjusting the eye sensitivity worked.

Snooky, thats also good to hear, hope everything works out, and let us know.

[DFJ]

This is probably not the right place for this but here is some more Information:

While I was having my problem I invesigated everything, which included the Angel, the Halo, and the Air System. As stated, I fixed my problem with the Halo sensitivity pot, but I did find something interesting with the Air System. I put a 0 to 700 PSI pressure gauge on the unused port of my ASA (Smart Parts, $10). I was using a fixed reulator low pressure tank and expected 450 psi. Wrong! I got significantly over 500 psi and the pressure varied with the fill in the tank. Worse, when I pulled the trigger the pressure dropped like a rock and seemed to take forever to recharge. How could I rapid fire with this I thought. I started borrowing other tanks and screwing them into my ASA. Observing the pressure gauge, the crossfire seemed to work best. I sent my tank to crossfire and for $65 got a new low pressure regulator.The output pressure is now constant in the 425 to 450 range and the recharge time is visibly reduced. I don't know how much if any problem this caused but if the input pressure is dropping.....

[speedmarvelizeR]

ha, dont yuo just love that old inaccurate, dimpled, oily, crappy, crappy paint??? Well i do!!!!

[Scott7d]

haha, when it was coming out of the barrel intact? oh yes!

[Snooky]

Alright took the fly to an indoor field this weekend. I put right around 1200 balls through it. There was less paint then I'm used to coming from the breech and sometimes none at all. However there was still paint. I'm thinking the fly just doesn't like formula 13 but I don't want to have a gun that is restricted on paint when I never know which paint we will be using at a tourney.

Anyone else have any ideas?

[DFJ]

When you say paint is coming from the breech, is paint breaking or chopping, or is it paint residue in the breech from previous breaks or chops?

[Snooky]

The paint isn't chopping thats for sure. The paint will come out from the crack between the breech and where the bolt sits. Then I will also find paint on the very top of the bolt which leads me to believe that it is hitting the second ball in the stack of balls.

Here is a picture*very dark, sorry* of where the paint will come out of. The yellow represents the paint.

[speedmarvelizeR]

haha, cool pic, um, nice "paint" job thing right there, thats just prime...

[Toolow]

We were just talking about this on another thread. Using tiny paint in a Halo B with an Angel will turn it into a blender. The second ball sits in the breach enough to get pinched as the bolt fires, and then you end up with paint and shell up your rise, in your hopper feed tube, and everywhere in your breech. Ive even had mine get so clogged once that no more balls would even load it was so filled.

I just use bigger paint if I can, because slowing down, speeding up, adding eyes, adding anything wont help. The problems of force feed hoppers.

[fife]

Ive even had mine get so clogged once that no more balls would even load it was so filled.
.

I had the same problem two weeks ago.

[Snooky]

I think I figured out the solution... Egg...

Seriously considering going back to the egg because nothing seems to work. Don't always have a choice of which paint I'm going to be using so thinking this is the logical answer.

But on the other hand generally the small amount of paint that comes from the breech doesnt affect the performance of the gun just looks messy, however every so often get a bad apple and there is a mess. Think less BPS with no mess is probally the best way to go.

Any other ideas?

[Snooky]

Scott7d - Do you think the evolve kit helped with the balls being hit by the top of the bolt with less pressure or think something else helped it?

[shampton911]

I have never chopped paint due to my halo, I am using an Halo B w/Victory board and on all 3 of my angels it works perfect. I use good paint always but I never have any problems. I use Platinum series proball and it works flawless also never had a problem with hellfire. All these problems people have with there halos is weird to me my whole team uses them and all our friends and never have i heard of breaking problems. I dunno maybe were all lucky.

[DFJ]

Snooky, I had a problem similar to yours after I broke so much paint there was liguid paint in the ram area under the breech. After I fixed the Halo paint would weep out at the breech joint during use. I was no longer damaging paint I just had a mess from the past. I used an air compressor to blow it out and it stopped. But, if I am understanding you right paint is still getting damaged....right?

[Snooky]

Yeah the paint is still getting damaged. I know I have a tiny bit of pink left down in there but I was using yellow fill this weekend and thats what was coming out.

[fife]

Scott7d - Do you think the evolve kit helped with the balls being hit by the top of the bolt with less pressure or think something else helped it?

It helps in few instances but actually worsens the problem in other cases. If you can get the bolt to "bounce" off of the ball (weather you are using the evolve kit or simply lowering your LPR) that is getting pinched, it will cause a double feed. This happened because the bolt moved far enough forward to push the first ball past the detents (if you are using a soft face bolt) but does not move the hammer far enough forward to open the valve. The first ball is still in the barrel then comes number 2, collosion and barrel break.

It's funny, I rarely had problems until recently. I have another guy on my team that has never chopped. I also set his gun up and he runs the same setup as me :notsure: .

[Bigal1]

it would be great to get some pics of where to drill. I'm ready to try adjusting mine because if that doesn't work, I'm getting an egg.

is there a tutorial on the internet where I can read on how to do this?

[Snooky]

Bigal1 - You really dont need to drill the hole, I was able to adjust it with a screw driver easily without drilling. It's the white circle near the top right of the LED and has a slit in the middle that will fit a small screw driver.

[DFJ]

The reson to drill is to be able to adjust the sensitivity while the Halo is operating. A picture and a description of the adjustment is in this thread. Good Luck.

[SNiPE]

Just some input, it does work for me. Set it at 7, works like a charm...hopefully for others, other solutions will come in time. Best of luck to all to fixing your Halo problems.

[Bigal1]

what's happening when it's at 7 or 9 or anywhere else? Anybody know what's being changed?

[fife]

by rotating the pot counter-clockwise you reduce the resistance in the sensor circuit, basically this causes the loader to be more sensitive and respond quicker to a ball.

[Bigal1]

got it. thanks.

[Switch_SE]

Just some input, it does work for me. Set it at 7, works like a charm...hopefully for others, other solutions will come in time. Best of luck to all to fixing your Halo problems.


set what to 7 ?

[Toolow]

Any of the previous 20 posts are all explaining exactly what 7 means.

[Toolow]

And just so you dont think Im a @#%*, that 7 is referring to an "o'clock" position, not a 1-10 setting.

[xcarnx]

I have an Empire, and it is like a blender on crack. I could not figure out the issue so I email WDP. They bascially said that sound activated Halo's are crap and not worth the money. I am now looking to take the board out of mine and add some eyes to like the regular halo. The sound activated halos do not know when to turn off and continue to turn an this breaks the balls at the seam. So I tried an original corrected some of the issue. I am currently using a Egg and it works great. I would love to know more about making the Halo a intelifeed and how the result have been with this set up. Also where do I get the supplies to do this.

thanks

xcarnx
I could have bought a DM4 or 5 but I dont need a paper weight.

[Toolow]

The bottom line is right here " I am currently using a Egg and it works great"

Well if it works great then why even invite the trouble a eyes halo will definently give you?

You see tons of eggs on Angels for a reason, Halo's in the majority of them cause chopping. I know mine did even with a marker with eyes and the moment I got rid of it the chopping disappeared too. I recommend this to anyone I see shooting an Angel who still uses a halo.

[fife]

I agree, the egg seems to be the only "reliable" loader for myself and all of my team.

[fife]

On another note, we have been using a modified Halo cone in a HaloB. This mod has not caused any breaks or chops, period! It is so simple even Odyssey would not believe it. This may sound like bulls--t, but until I've given it more time in testing it will remain under the covers (so I don't look like a fool). Most people know that the chopping problem comes and goes and I want to make sure this it THE solution.

What I really need is someone to contact me who has the capabilities to make a Delrin cone. No this isn't the same as what others are making, the design we are testing is different than the current design but we don't have the equipment to machine a Delrin cone. I am not going to try to sell these, a solution to this problem has been bugging me for a couple weeks now and really want to find a "simple" solution.

[Toolow]

I believe the mechanism that causes the chopping is the fact that real force is put onto the balls in the feedneck, not just gravity, and that causes the bolt to chop a ball above the ball firing out of the breech. So I dont know how the cone would really affect this particular phenom, but good luck, tell us if you find something out.

[fife]

I believe the mechanism that causes the chopping is the fact that real force is put onto the balls in the feedneck, not just gravity, and that causes the bolt to chop a ball above the ball firing out of the breech. So I dont know how the cone would really affect this particular phenom, but good luck, tell us if you find something out.

The cone is the last mechanism that transfers the force produced by the motor. So if you have a cone that is designed to apply the force in a different matter than the current design, you are able to reduce the force and slighty increase the ROF. The current cone design has caused problems with jams (hence one reason for the rip drive) and creates a situation where the ball stack does not have any give (ie the ball stack pressure gets locked up). The cone we have been trying works, plain and simple. I just want to try it under all conditions and various paint. FYI, last night we had practice and shot @3200 rounds through it (only one mid barrel break, no chops).

[Toolow]

Cool. I know you were looking for someone to make your cones how do you fab them now for the one(s) you are testing? I assume just modded ones that already exist. You may want to think about hitting up either of those two companies listed in that "Shocktech Parts" thread a few down from this one, as they already make ones out of Delrin and may be able to point you to a shop that makes them, or make them for you themselves.

Good luck.

[fife]

The ones we are testing are crude modded Halo cones. I actually tried the manu. for the Delrin cones but they want a large order (understandable). I can get an aluminum one machined, but I really want to go with Delrin because I don't like the metal ones.

[bigspanky123]

hello all, that sucks to hear that everyone is having problems, i just got mine put over 2 bags through it without a single problem

Hopper= empire reloader setting 2
barrel = Dye UL .689 back
paint = mid evil, formula 13, and premium.
temp. 77*

no problems. so i am happy.

[Snooky]

I sold off my fly but anyone that is interested I just read about what someone did to fix thier halo problems. They set the BIP to a slower setting then to what is suggested in the manual at SFAST to FAST or MEDIUM depending on how brittle the paint was. They claimed that it solved thier chopping problems. I believe the explanation was that the eye would trigger the ball and then it might move up a bit causing a chop whereas on higher speeds gave the ball more time to settle. I can neither confirm or deny the persons findings just figured I would share something to try if anyone is willing as I know all too well how much of a pain chopping with my halo was.

[fife]

I sold off my fly but anyone that is interested I just read about what someone did to fix thier halo problems. They set the BIP to a slower setting then to what is suggested in the manual at SFAST to FAST or MEDIUM depending on how brittle the paint was. They claimed that it solved thier chopping problems. I believe the explanation was that the eye would trigger the ball and then it might move up a bit causing a chop whereas on higher speeds gave the ball more time to settle. I can neither confirm or deny the persons findings just figured I would share something to try if anyone is willing as I know all too well how much of a pain chopping with my halo was.

This was an issue directed more towards version 3.7 which was related to timing. It doesn't solve the mechanical cause of the issue.