angel lcd electronic problems

[Bigal1]

I was adjusting ram on my son's angel lcd.

noticed both wires attached to backplate switch had broken off.

held wires to switch by hand and verified gun worked with switch in 'on' position.

soldered both wires back to switch (gun still on, battery still connected. While soldering the lcd display went from normal to blank screen, backlight on.

cycled power to gun several times. no change.

currently charging battery but after one hour, no change in display. checked battery voltage with multi-meter, reads 6.4 volts dc.

applied air to gun and gun will not fire.

did i inadvertently fry the electronics? if i did, do i only need new lcd or entire circuit board?

thanks.

[cody11scrappy]

yea.. i had the same thing happen, the wires kept breaking so i just taped them together so its always on. it could be possible tho that you put to much solder on the wires and there not making contact with the switch.. if i were you id try taking the wires back of the switch and just put the wires together. if it comes back on while the wires are touching then at least you know the board/battery isnt fried. if nothing happens then try charging it, while the wires are still together, if nothing happens then, then the board/battery is probally messed up.


Cody

[Bigal1]

yep. i shorted the two wires together and basically bypassed the switch. got the same results... ie no display.

[Vantage_TeS]

Best thing here would be to find a friend with and LCD and swap the screen and then the board so see which one is broken.

[Bigal1]

if the gun completes the self test, doesn't that imply that the screen is good? In other words, if the screen were bad, I would think that it would either display random data or no data at all instead of work during self-test and then not work afterwards.

[Vantage_TeS]

If its showing stuff on the self test then I would lean more towards bad board.

Oh! Go into your internal menu (in the grip) and see if you have the option for HUD, I think this may only be on IR3s. If you have it, make sure its on.

[thog94]

If its showing stuff on the self test then I would lean more towards bad board.

Oh! Go into your internal menu (in the grip) and see if you have the option for HUD, I think this may only be on IR3s. If you have it, make sure its on.


The HUD is only for the IR3.

[|3@NZ@1666]

that sux dude. you shoulda disconnected everything before soldering. are you good at soldering or did you just glob it on there??? if you need a board they have them at actionvillage. but if i were i'd get a space frame and get a newer, better board like a a4 or pred. btw when you solder did you use that cool thing on tv that instantly heats and cools down?? you kno the infomerical where he solders and then puts it on his arm and it doesnt burn?

[Vantage_TeS]

The HUD is only for the IR3.

Thats what I suspected, thanks for confirming :)

[Crazy Train]

That soldering iron you are refering to is Cold Heat. Any soldering iron can do the job as long as you have proper skills and a steady hand.

[Vantage_TeS]

I don't think it was the heat that killed the board.

Anyone know how a soldering iron works? ;)

[dilly man 2]

it gets hot, melts the metal stuff, ozzes out to where you put, and drys.
very hot but fries fairly fast

[Crazy4Paintball1]

I agree with Vanatage on the heat would not kill the board from the soldering iron unless you were putting it right on the board...which he wasn't.

[Bigal1]

then what's your thoughts on what is causing my problems?

thanks.

[Vantage_TeS]

I am thinking a possible short in the soldering iron overloading the power supply to the board. I could be wrong on that but its the only thing I can come up with. Shorting the two connections would just turn the gun on (its only the positive lead that you have on the switch) and its too far for the heat to travel and damage anything.