New Fly For The Weekend

[corrupt123]

(ug, i feel like such a noob posting like this, but better safe than sorry)

Anyways, it was a close race between the FLY or a DM4, but afterall i went with a Red Dust Fly.

It'll be here for the weekend (before august 21st) and i just want to ask, anything i should know?

im no stranger to angels, i had an IR3 before this and could tech the entire thing myself, i had both toolkits, greased the ram on my own, everything. so my only question is, anything i should know when i get the fly?

i have a HP max-flo, but i also have the MP spring so running 450 into thre mini reg wont be a problem at all, the fly im buying is sealed in box, so everything will be included, and lasti have a little over 3k in the tank right now, and a bag or so of good paint, so i plan on breaking it is pretty quick.

so again, basically my only question, anything i should be wary of when i do? or should i do anything before? i thought i remember reading somewhere that they should be gassed up vary slowly with the pressure increased slowly (that mighta been the A4) so basically stuff like that.

thanks.

[pgaglio]

You can pretty much gas it up and go. They don't need to be gassed up slowly either. If I were you, I'd read the manual first (obviously). That way you'll know about the different modes. Oh, the other thing is give it a nice full charge (some people recommend two) right out of the box.

[booboo808]

All you should be prepared for is to be amazed by it. lol, I just got a dust red fly and absolutly love it. DM4s are nice, but the Fly is the way to go.

[corrupt123]

excellent.

yeah i know about the full charge, but unfortunatrly i sold my wall adaptor with the IR3 so i guess i'll be sittin in the car for a while...

[I.R.Three]

The only thing I would do is buy a can of compressed air to clean your new angel eyes. In the unlikly event that you bust paint or get them dirty.
Saves you having to turn them off the eyes or rip them out and clean them.

[DaBlueDevil]

Just get a big piece of macro and run the line in the feedneck and blow the eyes out if needed.

[corrupt123]

alright, well it's charging as we speak, and i'm going to double charge it tonight (sins it's fresh out the box)

but after recieveing it have a couple questions,

slayer trigger- similar to the cobra trigger on my IR3, but much longer ( i can fit 3 fingers on it with ease) and so i've noticed it has a fair bit of side to side play. not big deal, i kind of like a little bit, seeing as i even enduced some on my IR3, but this is too much, i like my pull loose and semi-short, so i have it at about 2mm and real soft. thing is, the side-to-side is about 2mm aswell, so it's kind of like a box the way the trigger pulls (moves long 4 directions in equal length)

any tips as to how to reduce this? i was thinking some tin foil or something (vary little friction) but i'll experiment

me 2nd question, because i want to fiddle with my trigger, i'll obviously have to remove the grip frame. no problem. my question however is about the eye ribbon. from what i've read, these are quite delicate and tear vary easily, so how would i go about removing it? the battery and selenoid pugs i can just yank out by the wire, and the whole thing comes out, plug and wire. but with the ribbon, it might tear... also, when you remove the eye ribbon from the plug, is there an end? like does it plug in? or does it slide into the top? (if i explaned that too retarded, ignor me)

last, i read the manual and i was still a little confused. trigger offset (bounce) ... lower the number, less bounce there will be?

[Emmit]

me 2nd question, because i want to fiddle with my trigger, i'll obviously have to remove the grip frame. no problem. my question however is about the eye ribbon. from what i've read, these are quite delicate and tear vary easily, so how would i go about removing it? the battery and selenoid pugs i can just yank out by the wire, and the whole thing comes out, plug and wire. but with the ribbon, it might tear... also, when you remove the eye ribbon from the plug, is there an end? like does it plug in? or does it slide into the top? (if i explaned that too retarded, ignor me)

why do you feel you need to remove the grip frame??? There are no screws on the Slayer trigger other than the TOE screw, and this is accesible from the outside. You make all your trigger adjustments with the vernier wheels you see right above the grips. You don't need to remove the grip frame from the body for anything really.

As for the TR, this is for taking out bounce once you've set your trigger. You have it right, on the Fly markers it's the lower the number the less bounce. If you've got version 3.5 (which you should if you ordered it from one of the sites sponsors) you'll want to set your TR to 2;)

[corrupt123]

actually i got it off a guy who plays for atomix, has lp 3.4 on the board currently...

is it really that big a diffrence? should i look into updating? the software on my IR3 was outdated but the COPS was useless anyways so i never bothered.

and my question aboiut the grip frame is because, i will infact one day want to / have to take it off. and like i said, i'd like to do something about the trigger wobble so it'll need to come off for that.

thanks

[Furby]

why do you feel you need to remove the grip frame??? There are no screws on the Slayer trigger other than the TOE screw, and this is accesible from the outside. You make all your trigger adjustments with the vernier wheels you see right above the grips. You don't need to remove the grip frame from the body for anything really.

As for the TR, this is for taking out bounce once you've set your trigger. You have it right, on the Fly markers it's the lower the number the less bounce. If you've got version 3.5 (which you should if you ordered it from one of the sites sponsors) you'll want to set your TR to 2;)


Would 5 be excessive, Emmit? On my gun, that is. It doesn't seem to bounce, so that's what I went with.

[Emmit]

As we've been saying all along it's all dependant upon the trigger....however even the magic man told me to put all 5 of my teams Fly's at 2;)

[Jouster]

slayer trigger- similar to the cobra trigger on my IR3, but much longer ( i can fit 3 fingers on it with ease) and so i've noticed it has a fair bit of side to side play. not big deal, i kind of like a little bit, seeing as i even enduced some on my IR3, but this is too much, i like my pull loose and semi-short, so i have it at about 2mm and real soft. thing is, the side-to-side is about 2mm aswell, so it's kind of like a box the way the trigger pulls (moves long 4 directions in equal length)

any tips as to how to reduce this? i was thinking some tin foil or something (vary little friction) but i'll experiment
Side-to-side slop just increases the speed with which you can pull the trigger. But if it really bothers you, you can make the opening above the trigger a little smaller with just about anything you can glue up there. LPR shims work well (if, like me, you have a few hundred of them lying around from LPR mods (http://www.AngelFAQ.com/prolpr/") ;)).

me 2nd question, because i want to fiddle with my trigger, i'll obviously have to remove the grip frame. no problem. my question however is about the eye ribbon. from what i've read, these are quite delicate and tear vary easily, so how would i go about removing it? the battery and selenoid pugs i can just yank out by the wire, and the whole thing comes out, plug and wire. but with the ribbon, it might tear... also, when you remove the eye ribbon from the plug, is there an end? like does it plug in? or does it slide into the top? (if i explaned that too retarded, ignor me)
It just slides into the top; it's a ZIF (Zero Insertion Force) socket.

last, i read the manual and i was still a little confused. trigger offset (bounce) ... lower the number, less bounce there will be?
Yep.

Jouster

[corrupt123]

cool, but i'm also having some problems, which u can read about here. http://www.angel-owners.com/showthread.php?p=254355#post254355

thanks to all who have helped, and will help :)