Question RE: LPR psig setting

[fife]

Ken recommends @55 psig, the question I have and never paid much attention to is this checked while the gun is sitting idle, while cycling the gun or immediately after cycling the gun? I noticed that depending when the pressure is measured it can vary 15 psig and drop below 40 psig. :dunno:

[Jouster]

Ken recommends @55 psig, the question I have and never paid much attention to is this checked while the gun is sitting idle, while cycling the gun or immediately after cycling the gun? I noticed that depending when the pressure is measured it can vary 15 psig and drop below 40 psig. :dunno:
The LPR should "snap" to its setting after every shot, almost faster than your eye can follow. After it "snaps", it shouldn't "creep" any further--no more than a couple P.S.I. of creep, at the most!

Any other behavior means it's time to investigate the integrity of the seals.

Jouster

[fife]

The LPR should "snap" to its setting after every shot, almost faster than your eye can follow. After it "snaps", it shouldn't "creep" any further--no more than a couple P.S.I. of creep, at the most!

Any other behavior means it's time to investigate the integrity of the seals.

Jouster

That is kind of what I was thinking, but I guess I really never paid attention. I'm glad you answered because I was reluctant to ask if there might me a problem.

Can you tell me specifically what seals might be leaking? Also, do you know if running ultra low LPR pressure (40 psig) would cause that or possibly a leaking mini-reg? I could experiment but experience can save time :peace:

[Jouster]

That is kind of what I was thinking, but I guess I really never paid attention. I'm glad you answered because I was reluctant to ask if there might me a problem.

Can you tell me specifically what seals might be leaking? Also, do you know if running ultra low LPR pressure (40 psig) would cause that or possibly a leaking mini-reg? I could experiment but experience can save time :peace:
Sure! Pop out the body and piston, examine all external o-rings. Then, assuming none of the external o-rings are chipped or broken, put the lockpin in its socket on the LPR body, and use your ram adjustment tool (or a pair or circlip pliers) to pop off the back. Inside, you'll find a little blue cylinder; it costs $2 to replace (as opposed to $30 for a complete new LPR). There's one last seal, but it's not user-accessible; if it's blown, you'll need to replace the body completely.

Jouster

[fife]

I appreciate it, I will check those items and also order new seals (probably good to have on hand just in case).

Oh, the last seal you mentioned, is that the seal molded into the LPR body?

[Jouster]

I appreciate it, I will check those items and also order new seals (probably good to have on hand just in case).

Oh, the last seal you mentioned, is that the seal molded into the LPR body?
Nope, but the only way to access it is through the front, which has been crimped at the factory to seal it in.

Jouster

[fife]

Low and behold I had a defective LPR piston, the tip that is inside the LPR body had a nic out of it. I don't know how but it was there :dunno: Thanks for the advice because I found the problem while checking the back seal.