A4 Faq

[Sparco]

In light of all the technical questions posed on AOG, I wanted to welcome all you to assist me in beta testing the A4 FAQ that I've been working on recently. About a year ago I wanted to make photo walk-throughs for the various Angel markers but never found the time or the resources to produce one suitable for public use.

I've begun work on the A4 and wanted to allow everyone to take a look at it, provide your comments (and suggestions). Keep in mind it's not complete and I estimate completion to be by mid-april. My goal is to do a Routine every few days with the appropriate photos (or video).

A4 FAQ (http://www.rikter7.com/angel)

[52brandon]

it looks like you started well, but it looks more like a manual than a FAQ.

[Sparco]

It's designed to be both, it's designed to spell out the procedure as the manual states it (red), then show real photos of how it's done (blue) and other comments (orange). So instead of reading a block of text that explains how to adjust your LPR you can see step-by-step photos and a video of how it's done. That good stuff is coming later, though.

[ArchaneAngel]

nice

[SquirtGun]

Very nice!

I think many people would really appreciate having such a guide. At least I would! ;)

Personally I think you can cut down on the sections already explained in the manual and go into detail with things like LPR Setting (and how to use the tools), Ram-Service an so on.

Nice work, really!

Nick

[Jouster]

Awesome!

I'm headed off to an Angel tech class in April; when I get back, I'll be able to add much more useful commentary.

:),
Jouster

[Jetwing@Impactpaintball]

i like the idea, hopefully this will cut down in the number of basic/over-covered topics that usually get posted by new angel owners

[Panzerr]

Here is some info I've collected for myself. I can't access your FAQ, don't know if the army servers are blocking it out, but I hope this helps.

Angel 4 Infosheet


Velocity Adjustment -Insert 3 mm allen key into minireg
rotate clockwise to decrease
rotate counterclockwise to increase


Trigger Adjustment
1. The screw nearest to finger location that projects above the trigger controls the over-travel. Counterclockwise reduces over-travel.

2. The screw that is recessed in the trigger below the return spring controls the return stroke. Clockwise reduces the return stroke.

Vernier Wheels –Designed to fine tune your trigger adjustment. The two set screws, one on either side of marker adjust the tension on the wheels, and in its full position locks the setting.

TOE Adjustment The toe screw adjusts the point where your marker fires. If the toe screw is adjusted too far in, it can damage the board.

Debounce -Trigger offset is not there to create bounce, it's there to take bounce out allowing you to create the shortest trigger possible. The lower your trigger offset, the more bounce on your trigger. Setting the debounce too low may cause the marker to go full auto.


Assorted Angel 4 Info

Setting Suggestions
Ken Krane’s -flat shooting, quiet, no kick from the ram and good air efficiency
longest volumizer
lpr 55-60
dwell 17
imput pressure 300-350
evolution 2 loader
rof max
sensi on
sensi 4

WDP recomments 72 psi lpr with a dwell of 12

Dwell -Dwell is the length of time the valve stays open, sending air into the RAM. The
higher the dwell, the less efficiency. The higher the dwell, the louder the marker. The higher the dwell, the more tolerant the gun is to more brittle paint. The lower the dwell less the gun is towards brittle paint. A high dwell is needed when running the marker at low operating pressures.


SENSI - Modes 1 and 3 only place a long pause before allowing a clearing shot. This is equivilent to 1 shot per second with no paint after SENSI has calibrated itself correctly. With SENSI 2 and 4, the gun will fire as soon as the ball hits the SENSI if you have already pulled the trigger and a ball wasn't present at that time. The maximum delay before the gun allows a clearing shot on 2 and 4 seems to be much less as well.

SENSI Calibration –Calibrate your sensi every time you turn your marker on and every time you switch hoppers. When sensi is on, your MROF is automatically set to 31bps, and the LDS makes sure you don't outshoot your hopper. As stated this is exactly why you need to calibrate sensi everytime you turn the marker on. Calibrating sensi is easy. Just make sure there is paint in the gun, and the feed neck is full before you take your first shot. If this is the case, your first 10 or so shots over the chrono or while playing will calibrate the Sensi.

* Note – During sensi calibration, where you run into problems is if you have a reloader, or some other loader that doesn't feed a ball until you begin to shooting. If the sensi doesn't sense paint, it will turn itself off, and if your MROF is set higher than your feeder can feed, you will chop.


Troubleshooting

I am breaking/chopping paint
1. Check your ball detent. There should be a small white ball in the metal housing. Make sure it is sticking out far enough.
2. Rate of fire is too fast for the hopper.
3. Hopper is putting to much pressure on the balls in the breech and a second ball is trying to feed (HALO issue).
4. An improperly adjusted RAM could also cause chopping.
5. You may also have SENSI bounce –read below.
6. Your SENSI rod may be sticking too far into the break, poking holes in balls. 1/16 of an inch is too much.
7. Oily paints have been known to chop more often in angels.

Marker won’t go “live” -Check your trigger adjustment. Make sure it isn’t adjusted so tight that it is constantly firing.

My velocity is too low and it is adjusted to the max. Your LPR is set too low.

I get drop-off –Reset your LPR pressure to match up with your dwell, or vice versa.

Marker has a lot of kick –change your LPR pressure to match up with your dwell.

Marker won’t fire fast –Make sure your MROF is set to where you want it with sensi off and with sensi on.

Marker won’t fire -Adjust your TOE set screw. Be careful not to screw it in too far or you’ll damage your board.

Air leaking from backplate –This is a sign of an overpressurized solenoid.

Marker fires full auto –Increase the offset on your debounce. It may be set too low, causing the marker to fire full auto.

SENSI Bounce -Marker will not fire for a series of trigger pulls and then discharges at respectable rate of fire for another 5-6 pulls and pauses again. The actual firing of the gun is triggering the SENSI to think a new ball has been detected. If it paused for a shot or two then fired fast for 5 or 6 then the gun was "tricked" into thinking there was a ball in the breech by the shot vibration. This is a very common cause of chopping. I would do two things. Use a little of WDP's grease under the SENSI sensor (the plastic piece with the yellow strip). Also, make sure that the trigger frame is screwed tight enough on to the gun's body. The two main screws that attach the trigger frame are all you need to adjust here. You don't need to use a lot of force here, just tighten until it feels like it can't go any further then stop.

Other SENSI issues –Paint or water can get in the sensor, causing it to send a constant signal. Be sure to keep it clean.

HALO Issues with A4 –The halo has been know to press down too hard on the sensi rods. This can lead to damage to the sensi module.

My Sensor Rod Keeps Breaking -Shortening the rod probably will prevent sensor breakage. It only needs to barely stick up into the breech.

High Minireg Output (250+) to chrono 290+, or inconsistent chrono readings and loss of fps
1. Solenoid nut not set properly:
a. There is nothing in the manual about checking to ensure the solenoid is adequately seated by adjusting that screw in the solenoid cover.
b. Take off your backplate and tighten the screw down a little to see if the solenoid moves. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! You could damage the solenoid body!
c. There should be about a 3-4mm gap between the solenoid and the coverplate at the top.
d. My solenoid was nearly touching the top before I adjusted the screw.

2. Hammer may be loose on ram shaft. Tighten and locktite
3. This is a far shot: solenoid may have obstruction. Vent air through it to clear it out.

Marker won’t go below 260 fps Drop your minireg pressure 5 psi

Marker has slight leak - The screw holding the grip frame to the marker (inside the trigger gaurd) may be the culprit. Just tighten her up. Lowering your dwell may have the same effect. If it is leaking from the flash tank manifold, try regreasing your LPR orings or replacing them.

Known Break-In Issues -Markershoots fine at slow speeds, but stops shooting at fast speeds. Low thumping noise but thers no burst of air. The Ram may also get stuck in the forward position, but will move back when you degas and regas the marker. Known fix:

1. Set the output pressure to about 600-700psi on your tank.

2. Set the pressure on your mini-reg to about 350-400 (any higher and you can danage your exhaust valve stem, i know from personal experience, it sucks)

3. Dry fire about 700 shots at this pressure (make sure to re-fill your air every time it gets low, so you continually fire at this pressure).

4. Set the output pressure on your air tank back to what it "should" be (around 350) and set your mini-reg until it shoots the appropiate velocity (should be around 180-300 depnding on your settings).



How to properly adjust your RAM

Using the tools provided in the angel tool kit, adjust the RAM in until closing the breech with the bolt in produces a small click and a small amount of resistance. This is the proper RAM setting. Improper setting can lead to chopping.



How to Correctly Set your LPR Pressure

How to Correctly Set your LPR Pressure
Updated on July 8th 2003 to include info for the SPEED/A4

You will need to following items:
1. Angel LPR gauge
2. LPR piston removal tool (Gold thing with a screw in the end)
3. 4mm Allen Wrench
4. Adjustable AIR system
5. Shims
6. Grease or Oil
7. Safety Glasses (yes...I use them)

a. Make sure there is no paint in your gun.
b. Remove the Air from your gun. Turn your gun on and shoot the remaining air from the gun.
c. Remove the endplug from the right side of the gun (LEFT side for the SPEED/A4). This is the opposite side the ball detent is on.
d. install the LPR gauge.
e. turn minireg velocity adjusting screw until it is flush with the body. If you are using a gas-thru you can skip this step. We are trying to make sure the air from your tank is going directly into the gun without being affected by your in-line regulator.
f. using your adjustable tank send 500 PSI directly into the minireg (350 for the SPEED/A4) and see where your pressure is at. We are trying to get to 85-90 psi on an LCD, 100 psi on an IR3 and 82 on a SPEED/A4.

If the pressure is to high or to low you will need to adjust it using the shims. These are installed by removing the LPR piston (after de-gassing the gun) and adding or removing shims behind the washer springs. Adding springs increases the LPR pressure.

If you have to add an unusual amount of shims (over 10) to get your pressure up then it is a good idea to replace your LPR. It is also a good idea to clean and regrease the piston orings since everything is already taken apart.

TIP: When checking your LPR pressure make sure that the gauge returns FAST and stops. If it creeps you might need to replace the orings in the LPR or replace the entire LPR assembly



A Word on Batteries

Lithium batteries have a very low internal resistance, unlike NiMh batts that have a very high internal resistance. Which is why NiMh batts do not have good shelf life.

If you completly drained a NiMh pack and left it there for a while the cells will get damaged.

Lithium Polymer batteries hold a storage charge about 4X better than NiCad batts and about 10X better than NiMh batts.

Those of you that charge your Markers after playing then let it sit for a whole week & then play next weekend,b you are not playing with a fully peaked battery pack. In plain english NiMh batteries discharge themselves while sitting, roughly 1% per day.

The LED runs on 6 volts like the LCD and IR3, but they use Ni-Cad batts instead of the newer style NiMH ones found in some LCDs and all IR3s and a4s.

[Worr Angel]

Looks good. However you need to do the calibrating sensi part quickly. It is obvious by reading threads here that a lot a people don't understand that something must be on before you can calibrate it. :wall:

Also, FAQ's showing how to tear gun down, changing lpr, etc. are more valuable than reiterating the manual. I know the manual covers this, but not in great detail.

[Sparco]

It's been updated. I've got 8 routines done with more coming. Each of the already completed routines will also be expanded upon further, based on suggestions/comments regarding them.

[y0umissed]

thats a great job there Sparco, im sure people will refer new comers to that link when they want them to rtfm :wink:

[pbmatt74]

Yeah. Pretty sweet for all the people that like to see pictures of it being done. Nice job.

[paintballman_13]

Your description says WDP A4 but the picture is of a Force 4.

[thog94]

Your description says WDP A4 but the picture is of a Force 4.

The A4 and Force are the same internally and use the same board, the only difference is the warrenty and milling. When you purchase a Force, you get the same manual as the A4. I don't see what the big deal is.

[paintballman_13]

Ya I know. Its not a big deal it all.

[Sparco]

Because the marker is an A4.

[Sparco]

I updated some more routines, videos hopefully by the end of the month on some of the various tech routines.

Everything is still in beta format, mostly due to keeping bandwidth as low as possible until the offical launch. Going to wait for my "papers" before launching.

Please keep comments/suggestions coming.

[Wadesimmons]

could you pelase post on there a how to the magnetic trigger mod?

that would be a huge help for every body on the fourm

PLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAASSSSSSSSEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEE

thank u so much!

[thog94]

could you pelase post on there a how to the magnetic trigger mod?

that would be a huge help for every body on the fourm

PLEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEAAAAASSSSSSSSEEEEEEEE EEEEEEEEEEEE

thank u so much!


I'm not sure if Jason has any "aftermarket" mods planned, that's up to him. Run a search on magnetic mods and you will find your answer.