Wierd pressure problems

[J-Man]

Hey guys I have had to turn my reg up to almost 400 just to get 290 FPS. It used to be around 300 but over the last week I have had to increase it. My tank is adjustable and is putting out around 400. I haven't changed paint or barrels. I have a DIRT volumizer thats bigger the the largest 3-sum volumizer, but it's been on it for awhile.
LPR-55
dwell-16
I have over 25,000 on the counter. Cleaned and grease done when needed. Shoots fine and + or- 5 on FPS.
Any Help :pat:

[vap0r]

I have seen a similar symptom. I had to crank the air input from the mini-reg to just over 300 psi to get into the 290s.

LPR - 55
Dwell - 16
Largest volumizer

I serviced the mini-reg and rechecked the LPR. The symptoms went away, but I have to get into the 250psi range to shoot in the 290s. At 200 psi into the marker I am shooting in the 260-270 fps range.

I'm not shooting tourney paint when doing this (Draxxus Competition - practice paint). I am shooting with a FREAK.

Re-checking the reg and the LPR helped, but I shouldn't be shooting in the 260 fps range at 200psi operating pressure. Other people aren't, and they are using the same settings.

Hmmm...

[J-Man]

I also have the freak system on my 4, but I'll service the mini reg and see if that helps or changes anything.

[skuttner]

I've had the same problem from the beginning.

LPR 50, Dwell 17, Largest volumizer

With the follwing settings
Minireg input ~400
Minireg output ~200
I got something in the range of 260fps

Havn't had the time to re-chrono after I upped the LPR to 55 tough, but I don't expect it to result in a large increase of velocity, especially if i lower the minireg output under the 200 mark.

With my iR3 I had similar problems in the beginning. No WDP techie at tournaments, millennium etc. could seem to get it fixed. Finally I opened the solenoid to find it filled with thread (drilling) residues. Cleaned it, but didn't help much. I then vented LPR air straight trough the backplate opening and boy was I supprised when a several inches long thread residue flew out. Worked almost flawlessly after that, but nice quality on the iR3:s though. noot.

[vap0r]

I completely disassembled the marker just to see what might be causing a problem. This is what I found that was identifiably wrong in my case.

The hammer was noticeably a little loose on the ram shaft. I tightened it up and thread locked it so it would not loosen. This definitely was contributing to inconsistent chrono readings and loss of fps!

The set screw that holds the solenoid assembly in place from the top cover plate didn't seem to be quite tight enough either. There was no audible leak at the back plate from the solenoid area, but the solenoid definitely was sealed better after adjustment and moved the solenoid noticiably when I tightened it down.

After correcting these two issues I saw a 30fps jump without adjusting the psi input pressure, dwell or LPR. Went from 260s to 290s with right at 200psi input to the marker.

My gun is still relatively new (1 month with 22K shots). I neglected to check the ram assembly for sanity when I received it, nor did I know about the importance of the solenoid assembly screw in the cover plate being tight.

Just something to watch out for If you are experiencing a similar problem!

[PolecatR1]

nor did I know about the importance of the solenoid assembly screw in the cover plate being tight.

Is there any special procedure to checking the tightness of the screw? :again: I assume it's the screw on top of the solenoid cover?

[vap0r]

There is nothing in the manual about checking to ensure the solenoid is adequately seated by adjusting that screw in the solenoid cover.

Take off your backplate and tighten the screw down a little to see if the solenoid moves. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN! You could damage the solenoid body!

There should be about a 3-4mm gap between the solenoid and the coverplate at the top.

My solenoid was nearly touching the top before I adjusted the screw.

[Emmit]

sounds feasible....the solenoid is a flow path, if it's loose you'll be losing air.

[J-Man]

Well, I checked my hammer and sure enough it was loose, it noticed that it also loose on a teamates speed when we grease his ram. Haven't checked the solenoid screw yet but will tonight after work.
Thanks vapor :clap:

[skuttner]

I just removed my ram for the first time, and it just feels all wrong compared to what I'm used to with the IR3s and LCDs. Is the ram piston supposed to be loose in the sense that it has some movement space to the sides. You know, you can move the piston slightly in other directions than just back and forth. Also, it feels like it doesn't have a o-ring inside the cylinder, it feels like there is metal against metal inside. Is this normal or what?

Unfortunately I'm the only one with a A4 (or speed for that matter) in our team so I really can't compare to anything except IR3s and LCDs and they definately do not have the same feel.

[Emmit]

Ken posted on that question just the other day and said yes it is supposed to be loose, and under pressure it aligns itself to the center.

[skuttner]

Ok, thanks emmit.