morant
09-10-2003, 08:43 PM
OK...since I have been hanging around here on this board I have seen several threads about doing "magnetic triggers" on LCDs so....I've been meaning to do this to my 2K1 and have finally gotten around to it (it's nice) ....and I had intended to take some pics of what I had done to go along w/ an explanation/instructions for any of you here that were interested in how to do this, but the pics were not very clear so I decided to do it w/ some images out of the manual instead.
• 1st thing I wanna say about this mod is that it will not magically make you shoot any faster than you already can. It does however feel neat and will provide a little different dynamic to those looking for it.
• You need to have some skill w/ a dremel tool and you need a couple of "rare earth" magnets (radio shack)
• This is both easy and difficult....doing the cutting is easy getting it in the right place for the tension you want is a little tuff (I used an old stock trigger to experiment w/ first)
• If you don't like it you can take the magnets out and put your spring back and it'll work just like new.
• There are several effective ways to do this...depending on what you like/want. We'll start w/ the easiest.
• When I say "toe" I really mean "trigger return stroke screw"
• IN ALL THESE ILLUSTRATIONS THE MAGNETS ARE REPRESENTED BY SMALL RED WAFERS.
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MOD#1 Reverse polarity (the easy way)
This is the simplest way to do this and is just as effective as any of the others with the one drawback of having the magnets on the outside of the gun. You simply remove your 'return spring', glue one magnet to the trigger and one to the frame....make sure the polarity is reversed, ie...the magnets are pushing against eachother. I would also suggest using a little bit of tape before the glue so you can move the magnet's around and try them in different places so you can see where you like the placement. Note that different tensions will be possible based on the distance between the magnets so you'll want to figure out where you like it before you go and glue em down. If you decide that this is the way to go for you I suggest that you use epoxy as opposed to super glue to help insure that the magnets stay where you put them.http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/outside.jpg
I would suggest doing the easy way first for everybody....If you intend to do any of the following ways then this way will help you get a better idea of the distance you need to get the feel you want before you go cutting things.
-------------------------------------------
MOD#2 reverse polarity (inside the marker) This is a little more difficult but still not terribly hard to do(you will need the dremel).
First take the marker apart and epoxy one of your magnets to the underside of the main body....glue it in the spot where the spring rests or rather where the spring used to rest.
Then remove your trigger from the frame. You want to use one of the larger 'reinforced' dremel cut-off wheels as opposed to the regular wheels(this will get your gap to the size of the magnet easier) Cut a notch in the back of the trigger through the spring hole(see fig. 2)http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/cut.jpg
this notch is where you will insert your other magnet(pushing away from the one on the main body) ie...fig.3-4http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/slot1.jpg http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/installed1.jpg
Where you put the slot/magnet will again determine the tension you get, therefore there are several options here...you can move the magnets farther away from one another for less tension or closer for more. For instance you will get more resistance from fig. 5 than you would for figs. 3&4http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/moreresist.jpg
as a side note, you could simply boar out the spring hole just a little and actually stick the magnet down in it making it flush w/ the top of the trigger....you'll get a good deal of resistance but it'll be harder to get the magnet in and out for toe adjustment.
On my marker I got the tension I wanted by making the slot wider and using 2 magnets in the trigger(fig. 6) http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/2slot.jpg
I suggest using regular old super glue when seating the magnets in the actual trigger so they will be easy to get out if you need to adjust your toe(if you cut your slot neatly the magnet will fit tight anyway)
----------------------------------------------
MOD#3 positive polarity i.e. the "ginxed" speed trigger mod as found in the speed forum for LCD
This is ultra simple and requires no cutting, however I don't like the feel of it....it may be your thing though. For this mod you will only need one magnet. You simply remove your trigger and glue one magnet down in the grip frame where your toe adjustment screw rests(fig.7) and then put your trigger back in place......readjust your toe to make up for thickness of the magnet. Put your spring back (the spring is optional and not necessary) and go with it. The magnet will be attracted to the set/toe screw making the trigger want to snap back in place when pulled off the magnet.http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/otherway.jpg
Questions?
• 1st thing I wanna say about this mod is that it will not magically make you shoot any faster than you already can. It does however feel neat and will provide a little different dynamic to those looking for it.
• You need to have some skill w/ a dremel tool and you need a couple of "rare earth" magnets (radio shack)
• This is both easy and difficult....doing the cutting is easy getting it in the right place for the tension you want is a little tuff (I used an old stock trigger to experiment w/ first)
• If you don't like it you can take the magnets out and put your spring back and it'll work just like new.
• There are several effective ways to do this...depending on what you like/want. We'll start w/ the easiest.
• When I say "toe" I really mean "trigger return stroke screw"
• IN ALL THESE ILLUSTRATIONS THE MAGNETS ARE REPRESENTED BY SMALL RED WAFERS.
-------------------------------------
MOD#1 Reverse polarity (the easy way)
This is the simplest way to do this and is just as effective as any of the others with the one drawback of having the magnets on the outside of the gun. You simply remove your 'return spring', glue one magnet to the trigger and one to the frame....make sure the polarity is reversed, ie...the magnets are pushing against eachother. I would also suggest using a little bit of tape before the glue so you can move the magnet's around and try them in different places so you can see where you like the placement. Note that different tensions will be possible based on the distance between the magnets so you'll want to figure out where you like it before you go and glue em down. If you decide that this is the way to go for you I suggest that you use epoxy as opposed to super glue to help insure that the magnets stay where you put them.http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/outside.jpg
I would suggest doing the easy way first for everybody....If you intend to do any of the following ways then this way will help you get a better idea of the distance you need to get the feel you want before you go cutting things.
-------------------------------------------
MOD#2 reverse polarity (inside the marker) This is a little more difficult but still not terribly hard to do(you will need the dremel).
First take the marker apart and epoxy one of your magnets to the underside of the main body....glue it in the spot where the spring rests or rather where the spring used to rest.
Then remove your trigger from the frame. You want to use one of the larger 'reinforced' dremel cut-off wheels as opposed to the regular wheels(this will get your gap to the size of the magnet easier) Cut a notch in the back of the trigger through the spring hole(see fig. 2)http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/cut.jpg
this notch is where you will insert your other magnet(pushing away from the one on the main body) ie...fig.3-4http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/slot1.jpg http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/installed1.jpg
Where you put the slot/magnet will again determine the tension you get, therefore there are several options here...you can move the magnets farther away from one another for less tension or closer for more. For instance you will get more resistance from fig. 5 than you would for figs. 3&4http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/moreresist.jpg
as a side note, you could simply boar out the spring hole just a little and actually stick the magnet down in it making it flush w/ the top of the trigger....you'll get a good deal of resistance but it'll be harder to get the magnet in and out for toe adjustment.
On my marker I got the tension I wanted by making the slot wider and using 2 magnets in the trigger(fig. 6) http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/2slot.jpg
I suggest using regular old super glue when seating the magnets in the actual trigger so they will be easy to get out if you need to adjust your toe(if you cut your slot neatly the magnet will fit tight anyway)
----------------------------------------------
MOD#3 positive polarity i.e. the "ginxed" speed trigger mod as found in the speed forum for LCD
This is ultra simple and requires no cutting, however I don't like the feel of it....it may be your thing though. For this mod you will only need one magnet. You simply remove your trigger and glue one magnet down in the grip frame where your toe adjustment screw rests(fig.7) and then put your trigger back in place......readjust your toe to make up for thickness of the magnet. Put your spring back (the spring is optional and not necessary) and go with it. The magnet will be attracted to the set/toe screw making the trigger want to snap back in place when pulled off the magnet.http://www.awolpaintball.com/trigger/otherway.jpg
Questions?