View Full Version : Ram question
JPainter
08-30-2003, 07:59 PM
What are symptoms of a dirty/ gummed up ram? Will it stick? Leak? Both?
*Had valve assembly replaced to deal with a periodical leak. Here is what it did, now and again the gun will leak, sounds like breech area, while doing cannot open the breech, as the bolt is partially forward. Gun still cycles and shoots paint. I re-adjusted the ram, did it less.*
So I am now thinking maybe the ram is dirty and sticking now and again? What is the best way to clean this? I had a bushy, to clean it's ram I would just unscrew it out, wipe clean the grease inside body and on ram, then reapply grease. (using Shocktech lube (Dow 33)) Would the proceedure be the same?
Jeff
Thanks!
JPainter
08-30-2003, 08:34 PM
I have removed the ram, and cleaned it. The ram clamp seal (only black o-ring on ram shaft) seems to present a fair amount of resistance when pushing the shaft/hammer back into the rest possition. Should it present resistance to allowing the ram to totally retract? It seems perhaps swollen.
Let me know Ideas.
Jeff
BURLEY
08-30-2003, 09:06 PM
no, that's normal. With previous angels (LCD, IR3) there was a snap ring on the back of the ram. This O-ring is a replacement for the snap ring. (if the LPR is set to low, this ring will cause the fsdo)
Cleaning the ram works as you already have described. Make sure you put the ram back in correctly! Run a search there are some threads about it.
JPainter
08-31-2003, 05:00 PM
The snap ring - o-ring can't actually do anything except hold the ram in the base possition when there is no gas in the marker. So, assuming that, have people done anything different with this? Smaller o-ring/ no o-ring for better cycling?
Jeff
Osmoosi
08-31-2003, 05:32 PM
The original purpose of the snap ring was to hold the ram in place until enough pressure was built behind the ram to overcome the clamping force, making the hammer/bolt movement more sudden (and possibly improving consistency/efficiency).
Have they replaced the ram shaft o-ring and the snap ring with the "clamp seal" design in the new Speed ram, or does it still have a separate shaft o-ring?
JPainter
08-31-2003, 06:52 PM
it is called a snap o-ring, the o-ring is at the upper most part of the ram shaft before the hammer. It does as you say, restraining the ram untill enough pressure is present.
Jeff
BURLEY
09-01-2003, 09:32 AM
so putting on a smaller o-ring is not a very good solution.
there is a fat chance that the presure build up is to low, so the speed will have drop off constantly.
which makes the solution worse than the original problem.
JT2002
09-14-2003, 12:34 AM
hoq do u remove the hammer from the ram?
JPainter
09-14-2003, 12:48 AM
There is a set screw in the side of the hammer, remove it and the hammer should pull off, there could be resistance because of locktite.
Jeff
JT2002
09-14-2003, 12:55 AM
they must of used a ****load of loctite cuz in aint budging. and trust me, im pullin pretty damn hard
JT2002
09-14-2003, 01:03 AM
any ideas?
JPainter
09-14-2003, 01:32 AM
Well the manual says to use "suitable soft faced grips" so, if it is on there really good you may need a vise with padded grips, clamp the ram assembly down and use a soft mallet and tap the hammer off, plastic mallet or regular hammer and a non-metallic instrument to comtact the hammer. Usually a good tap will loosen it right up.
JT2002
09-14-2003, 01:40 AM
so do u mean to pull the hammer out, extending the rod, clamp teh ram with the 3 orings down, then use hammer and object to bang the piece off? heh, wish i had all those things here. looks like my local shop is goin to be havin some fun with my gun in a few days heh. man wdp should really make their guns easier to work with. it seems like almost every upgradeable part is a pain in the ass to work with. i mean, i already have to go to my shop cuz my rise is locktited like crazy, now my hammer is being a bitch, whats next? im starting to have some major dislikes here. heh
JPainter
09-14-2003, 01:50 AM
Stainless steel hammer upgrade? Other than a volumizer I have not done anything, shoots great. The hammer would be a pain, adjustments and general service are a breeze though. My only major dislike right now is the deterioration of the Skinz grips.
re: above prob : yea without a vise and a soft mallet you probably could not break that free, doesn't need much, but it is awkward. Pliers woul djust score it to no avail.
Jeff
JT2002
09-14-2003, 03:02 AM
any chance a vice would damage the ram? hrm maybey ill bring my ram to school monday. i take a class with all of the needed things, vice mallet and all, just need to bring in a rag. so now, how is the hammer on in there? im asking because teh way you describe it, it sounds almost like its just pressed onto the ram tube, but, when iu look in the SS hammer, its threaded. u ppl sure the hammers arent threaded in? j/w
JPainter
09-14-2003, 12:38 PM
if it was threaded I dont think you would ever get it off because the ram shaft can spin freely. Before you clamp it in the vise try holding it in your hand and using soft grips to pull.
Jeff
marcis
10-24-2003, 11:00 AM
hey ductch boy where do you play pb!???
acoenfam1
10-24-2003, 12:21 PM
Jt2002,
You still haven't gotten your hammer off?
Foosheezee
10-25-2003, 02:04 AM
What you do is remove the screw on the hammer and try to unthread it.
THE HAMMER THREADS ONTO THE RAM SHAFT
DO NOT TRY TO HAMMER IT OFF OR ANYTHING, AS THAT WILL CUASE THE RAM SHAFT TO BEND
If the hammer does not budge (which it should not do) then you can heat with a lighter or something to break the locktite. then all you have to do is unthread it (put a vice around the RAM SHAFT itself) and then unthread it.
Replace the oring and re oil and dow the entire ram assembly.
Make sure you keep your Ram oiled properly, so that the oring doesn't get shredded or worn out (Periodic leaks in my experiance)
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