trigger advice

[Duracell]

I have spent hours trying to up the rof on my ir3 buy cant seem to get over 10 bps. COPS is off when i try out my newest adjustment so I no its not that. Any help would be appreciated.

[5150]

It all takes time. And make sure your MROF is above 10. Or elese you will never get above 10.

[Frostbyte]

this may be your problem as well as mine too, but whenever i sit down with my gun, and try to shoot it fast, i simply cannot, however, while playing a game, and all hell is breaking loose, ive noticed that i can get it up to 14 bps. i think i cant sit down and try to shoot fast because im concentrating too much on shooting fast, so it does not happen. i donno, thats what ive noticed in myself, see if its the same with you.
-Erik

[Duracell]

Thanks Erik, Im going balling this weekend so I'll give it a try.

[AZ-Monsoon]

Originally posted by Frostbyte
this may be your problem as well as mine too, but whenever i sit down with my gun, and try to shoot it fast, i simply cannot, however, while playing a game, and all hell is breaking loose, ive noticed that i can get it up to 14 bps. i think i cant sit down and try to shoot fast because im concentrating too much on shooting fast, so it does not happen. i donno, thats what ive noticed in myself, see if its the same with you.
-Erik


Same with me... If I try to bang some rof out on the couch with no paint I may hit like 11-12. But when I see fools scattering off the break I am usually around 13-14. My gun works so much better with paint in it.

You do need to set the rate of fire higher than you can really go, if your hopper can handle it. If you set your mrof at 10bps you will never have the timing to hit that rate of fire. Example: My mrof is at 16 to get 13 or 14bps. If I set it to 10 I usually can't get better than 9bps. Some may argue this but this is my observation from a lot of experimenting. Of course, this is all dependant upon a good trigger job. good luck

[Duracell]

Sounds like the plan, but i guess i better get a new hopper (or atleast the new board) 9v VL baby, oh ya. How much do the 9s feed per second anyway? LoL

[AZ-Monsoon]

I don't remember exactly on the 9v. I think it is something like 7-8bps. It is way to slow to take advantage of an IR3 though. I doubt you could hit 10bps with it without chopping. COPS will save your but there though if set up right. I would get a force feed loader like the evo2 or my favorite the halo b.

[djmjohan]

Originally posted by Duracell
I have spent hours trying to up the rof on my ir3 buy cant seem to get over 10 bps. COPS is off when i try out my newest adjustment so I no its not that. Any help would be appreciated.

1) set your MROF > 10. Try 16 and see if you can register an ROF higher than 10. Obvious, but needs mentioning.

2) shoot your gun with air.
The slight kickback helps you shoot the gun.

3) set your trigger fairly fine to help out with the kickback in #2.

4) get a faster hopper if you actually want to shoot paint above 12bps. Remember to set your MROF appropriate to what your hopper can deliver.

5) if you paint doesn't flow very fast, make sure your gated feed tabs aren't too stiff.

6) the extra adrenaline from a game situation helps you shoot faster also. I can burst out 13-14bps during a game pretty easily now. Harder to do at home sitting on the couch just clicking the trigger with no air.

7) leave COPS off. Until you get COPS2 software. COPS slows me down to about 9bps. My counter says 10 with cops on, but I don't believe it. It sounds slower than my Cocker. Without COPS, I can rail up to 14bps. Fast enough to freak onlookers anyway.

8) once you start shooting over 10-12bps, you will need a good flowing air system and a properly adjusted LPR or shootdown will occur. Don't worry about it unless you find a problem with it. Set your LPR to 95psi.

good luck with this.

[Tempest261]

To everyone who has posted:

What pivot points, spring tension (qualatatively anyway), pull length are you using?

[djmjohan]

I have a microswitched MEM3 board. I find the microswitch easier to work with since you can easily hear and see the little switch go CLICK. Really helps when you want to set the trigger very fine, but not too fine.

I use the backpivot, and a fairly soft spring. I originally put in a stiff spring, but went back to the stock spring, as a softer feel resulted in it being easier to shoot fast.

My pull length is about 0.7 mm Just before and after the switch CLICKs. It could be shorter even, but its important to leave just a hair of extra forward and backward travel.

Helps ensure reliable firing, and reliable resetting. Not a lot of extra travel, but you want to be sure the switch has completely clicked, and completely reset.

[Duracell]

See, that's one of the problems ive had with setting up my trigger. I try to set it a hair or two bacwards and forwards, but sometimes it doesnt click at the point i set it, so i dont get a shot off. How can i improve this?

[Tempest261]

See, that's one of the problems ive had with setting up my trigger. I try to set it a hair or two bacwards and forwards, but sometimes it doesnt click at the point i set it, so i dont get a shot off. How can i improve this?

I noticed this too, but then I thought about it and it didn't make sense. Why would my trigger adjustments be changing on me? I took the trigger all the way out and looked inside the frame.

I looked inside where the forward trigger stop makes contact with the frame. I've had the IR3 since early september, and it's always in use, so that explains what I saw. The contact area on the frame looked like it had gotten a lot of wear- completely cratered. What happens is, the forward trigger stop will hit a different crater or no crater, causing your forward stop point to change JUST SLIGHTLY.

To solve the issue, I took a flat head screw driver and some sand paper, and wrapped the sand paper around the head of the screwdriver and sanded the area down until it was flat again. Then, I readjusted the trigger and the pull length was MUCH more consistent now. I was able to cut my pull down to half of what I originally had it (which was pretty short).

I really think WDP needs to take a thin stainless steel strip and put them on the contact points so this kind of wear doesn't occur.

[Duracell]

Wait, I dont mean it changes due to ware. I mean that sometimes at the exact point were it fires, it sometimes doesnt fire when i am trying to go fast on my trigger. But since i have never ran paint threw it yet (I will this weekend) i can get a better perspective on what i have to do after this weekend. Besides if all else fails, Im going to LA in december so ill just get Warped to do it =)

[Tempest261]

Yeah... the trigger pull lengths are actually changing.. it's very very small but enough to cause issues- does it happen often when you tilt the gun? If your trigger has some side to side slop, the trigger front stop's point can change some too.

What it comes down to is the fact that angel triggers are hard as hell to adjust to get really short, since you have to remove the frame and sometimes the trigger (for the front stop) and then go with trial and error. The Optoboard makes it even harder.